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:oops: Steve, thank you - the idea of using a combination square is so simple and yet, at the same time, so effective. I'm disappointed I didn't think of this myself, as I regularly use my square for all sorts of tasks just like this. :roll: I will double check that the front edge of the table...

Sounds like a very good price, Andy. Look forward to seeing it come to life in a future WIP! :D I went to their show (Festival of the Tree) back in 2008 and all the wood they had for sale there (all native stuff, cut from their woods) was considerably more expensive than buying air-dried timber...

Pen blanks!! What a great idea for selling off your offcuts! :twisted: :wink:

I'll second the recommendation for the use of a epoxy. I did this myself recently on a walnut-veneered top and also on a chair seat: I actually used Araldite, which is affordable for small jobs like this, compared with the cost of the West Systems Epoxy range, for example! :shock: To...

Sounds interesting. Do you have any photos of the finished results? :)

Hi guys, As some of you may recall from almost a year ago, I bought an old cast iron benchtop mortiser (labelled "Smiths Woodworker"; very similar to Multico in appearance) off eBay (barely visible in the shot below... :oops:). Overall, I'm still impressed and very pleased with it - it...

I'm sure Brad has said this before, but you really should be aiming for £200 today in the workshop. It should work out between £20-25 p/h. Don't start out too cheap or you'll run in to trouble (perhaps even lose clients and recommendations) when you have to bump your prices right, later. Even if...

The only one I can think of is made by Mafell. You save some money but, it's only a ¼in router. :( I think Adam used to own one, if he's still around???

Okay. This should be pretty self-explanatory; the piece of wood is fixed to a sheet of MDF (12mm?) so that you can clamp or secure it to your table top. The timber is set proud of the base slightly, so that it actually contacts the timber being fed through (sorry, you'll have to imagine the...

Another reason I thought of all this is because I'm quite paranoid (among many other things.... :roll:) about how much electricity I consume... Each time I start the saw up (Makita LS1013 with a soft-start brush motor), I notice the lights dim. If I'm batch cutting for, say, twenty-minutes then...

That definitely sounds like a roll pin to me, as well. Worst case scenario with these is that they've snapped and that some of the fragments have become wedged inside, making it a right pig's ear to remove... Fortunately though, that's more of a common occurrence with mortisers, or other...

I also agree that a featherboard would be a better option - it applies pressure against the fence while also greatly reducing the risk kickback. A single strip of wood may not be the best option although, my horizontal featherboard spans the full length of my table and it doesn't give me any...

As Eric says - if you guys could please clarify exactly why you think this is so dangerous then, I'd be grateful. I wouldn't use this for cutting long lengths or sawn timber, where the saw blade is probably most likely to bind or snatch. In such a situation, the trigger switch is ideal because...

Nicely done. What did you finish it with?

An interesting use of contrasting timbers. Good to see you cut all the wedges in the right direction the first time (...I didn't, one mine :oops:). I assume you replaced that split leg with a new piece of walnut?

That's a very nice desk indeed. Did you use soft-close runners? I was looking at a couple of pieces that had these fitted in our exhibition last night and, as much as I'm a fan of traditional drawer construction, I have to admit that the action is so nice I would now consider it for a future...

Nicely done. It would've been nice if you could've mitred the corners of the inlay in the top (maybe next time, though :wink:) but, I hope this one gives you the confidence for your next projects. :) I'm not sure what that mark is on the bottom of the leg, either. Doesn't look like glue. Is it...

Hi guys, I know I'm not the only one who using a sliding compound mitre saw for cross-cutting. I'm not a great fan of radial arm saws but, one advantage they have that I like is that you can 'lock' the saw on. With a mitre saw, you have to release the trigger each time you stop and, when you've...

There's an old trick to setting the correct clearance between hollow chisel and auger, which involves simply a 2p coin... Set the chisel only in to the machine but wedge the coin in about, so that chisel is actually about 2mm lower than it should be. Tighten the bolt/screw to secure the chisel...

You're right; their "final value fee" wasn't this high until about eighteen months ago. :P Whenever I do list something, I always add a note saying that I would prefer to complete the transaction "outside" of eBay, for the sake of saving money. Most of the buyers I've met have been happy to do...