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I'm just fitting the insert for my router table and the fixing screws that hold the base plate on to my router are not long enough to go through the insert. I have a quick look on the tritontools.co.uk website but can't find any longer ones, can anybody help? Cheers

Can you get in to scribe it from the back? I'd then be tempted to get rid of most of the spare with a hand circular or table saw and the finish off with a good fine hand saw.

You'll probably find the same runners in ScrewFix at a significantly lower price, I did and kicked myself as I have a ScrewFix walk in shop right next to B&Q :roll:

Try this Assuming your drawer is going the full depth of the cabinet, then yes, you want the longest runner you can that is under the depth available to you. On the page a bove there are some bottom mounted runners as well, not sure if they are full extension, but they generally take up less...

A lot depends on the runners you plan to use. They should tell you the clearance that they require, so I'd source some of those first, I know ScrewFix do them, but they're not cheap. You can either stick with that, or route a dado in to the drawer side and cabinet side to set them in. As for...

Yes, I've had the same problem with a Trend 1/4" straight cutting bit. I assume the reducer that comes with the Triton is 1/4" as if it was 6mm it would be a little on the tight side for a 1/4" bit. The bits just slip in to the reducer, tightened up well and still wandered out. I was using my...

OK, need to do some reading first, but it would seem that it's a case of developing an appropriate rounding mechanism / compare to a set of figures in the case above.

For the golden ratio, I do calculate the figure as a decimal from the values entered so it will have a fair degree of accuracy: +/-79,228,162,514,264,337,593,543,950,335 for zero-scaled numbers, that is, numbers with no decimal places. For numbers with 28 decimal places, the range is...

Yes it's just a case of multiplying the shortest by 1.62 to get the middle then multiply that again to get the long. I didn't actually check the maths, but I suppose I should seeing as the cutting list seems to be out. Where it will get interesting is to take board thickness in to account as...

I had a similar situation and went along to my local Travis Perkins to see what they had as they do offer some of the more tradional profiles. The guy offered to get some made up for me as he thought it may sell well. He had 300m made up I've used a fair bit and he's just ordered another batch...

Interesting, but I'm not convinced the cutting list is correct. Not to be out done by the southerners, I've re-created it as a Windows app, feel free to have a play (you will need the .NET framework), any comments welcome, I did ponder on things like considring board thickness and calculating...

SIP are doing their 12" SCMS for £179 including a stand worth £80 or so http://www.sipuk.co.uk/acatalog/sip_special.html

Once you've downloaded it from google it seems to work inline in the thread. Anyway, my copy is hosted in photobucket so shouldn't be an issue.

This is what I did with my brick walls and I have to say it's made a big difference, nice and toasty!

Am I missing something here. I appreciate that precision is something to strive for, but how much does wood move (expand and contract) in a normal environment? I'm sure it considerably more than the 1/000's of an inch I see quoted for some machinery.

Been re-doing things with liquid PTFE over weekend and it's massively improved.

Thanks for the responses, I'll try the no sealer approach first and if that doesn't cut it, I'll try out some of those mentioned above!

Spent the evening messing about with the compressors, adding quick connects and couplings (PCL) to lines and the compressors. Trouble is, it sounds like a vipers nest. I've put 3 or 4 turns of PTFE on the threads before doing them up as tight as I can with spanners but it's still hissing away...

Despite it's name, duct tape isn't very good for duct work. Aluminium tape works far better!!