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You called........ :twisted: :roll: :wink: If I were you I'd start thiinking in terms of a "sled" with T-slots cut in it and toggle cramps on top. A commercial toggle cramp looks like this: and this could easily be mounted on some form of T-nut to locate in a T-slot. You could also make...

I believe the distance now taught for C&G is about 40cm, i.e more than double the 15cm you quote, but that is an advised distance. The biggest issue with boxes is the need to saw off the top of the completed box and that is one of the few wood machining processes in which it is all but...

Sorry to have asked that but I've even seen people on the box (e.g. Tommy Walsh) do it the other way and try to use an SCMS like a radial arm saw and that in turn can induce a bit of a kick. Scrit

I think I'd agree with that, too, for hardwood or thin softwoods. Even Spaxs or Reissers can cause splitting at times. Scrit

Mitre and radial arm saws should have blades with a zero rake or negative rake for the reasons stated - pushing the work down onto the table and reducing kickback. The Freud catalogues state the hook angles of their blades so it might be worth requesting one from them: Freud Tooling (UK) Ltd...

As you are trade have you thought about the alternatives in terms of secondhand? For £1300 you could probably snare a secondhand Wadkin SP130 (3-phase only) - 12in blade (10in with the scorer on), scorer and half-size sliding carraige running split at the the blade (i.e. a true slider not a...

I do that as well. Aluminium oxide is friable and appears to be softer than cast iron, but harder than red rust, so it does work well Yes. If you are spraying pre-cat or acid cat they will fish-eye where any silicone particles. Ruins the finish. Once I've cleaned up I generally resort to...

A common source of burning especially in crosscutting timbers such as sycamore, beech and maple is that the blade has simply been ground too many times which leads to a reduction in the clearance angle behind the tip. The solution is to use a newer blade. When ripping these timbers the solution...

Even the trade can't get melamine resin that easily - it's what the manufacturers of MFC (melamine-faced chipboard, the stuff they use for kitchen carcasses) use, but otherwise not readily available. And they use a layer of paper and heat cure the stuff, so...... Ther are, however, two readily...

Hi Gary They will move, but if they've been acclimatised to the house/room before you make them the movement won't be so great. Remember than lay-on kitchen doors are normally made with a 2 to 3mm reveal all round and the reveal should accommodate any movement. As to structure you will most...

In terms of speed I'd go with the bendy MDF (2 layers with the kerfs innemost) or possibly bendy ply (which will require two formers and spacer blocks). You'll still need to make an accurate-ish former, but you'll be able to make up a jig and assemble the base in an hour or so start to end...

Having the patience to use one and finding them useful aren't the same thing, methinks. If a well used one (#444) had ever come up at auction then I'd be more likely to believe that they were a useful tool, but I've talked to Patrick Leach, Tony Murland and David Stanley about this in the past...

You don't need a special cutter at all. It can be made with a groover and a straight bit, or even two straight bits: Strong and relatively forgiving of minor discrepancies. Scrit

And quite right, too! :wink: I suppose the perspective comes from what you do. If you are bench based and planing all day then a set of H&Rs and a selection of moulding planes can be readily stored and they are lighter (and I'd say easier and less tiring) to use than a combination plane...

To handle bigger sheets it needs to have a an outrigger table and crosscut fence attached to the sliding carraige, thus: To rip full size sheets on the carraige requires a longer sliding carraige: On a pallet truck or heavy-duty wheel kit Scrit

They probably used the same sort of finish "back then" as they tend to nowadays, acid catalysed 2-pack lacquer, a material which unfortunately is awkward to repair without the right gear. The stuff is impervious to many strippers and pine dippers actually use a special highly aggresive stripper...

I tripped over what appears to be a new planemaker, Brese. I especially like the smoother - shades of a #13 but in brass and mahogany (I think). Prices frighten me a bit, though. You could buy some nice machinery at those prices :roll: . Enjoy! Scrit

HI Woody I own a Bosch GKS86B plunge saw and three lengths of Bosch track. I also have an adaptor for the Bosch GOF900ACE router. So, is there any reason to own a Bosch? If you already have a Bosch jig saw or router that you want to use with a compatible track system, then maybe, although...

For anyone interested in the Arcoy brand, there's also this site run by John Luby which has variois hints and tips, etc Scrit

A lot....... :roll: To make a mortiser really useful it must be possible to lay out only one mortise from a batch (e.g. the middle rail mortises in a batch of 3 doors: 6 identical mortises), set stops on the mortising machine, then cut the batch without any need for further marking out...