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Just use a 2 part epoxy filler, cuprinol do a good one. Ive used that before and if it is to be painted you will never be able to tell there has been holes there.

He wont need too much to start with as he will prob only be watching, tidying, lifting and making cuppas for everyone at first. But I would say a tape measure, a combination square, pencil, a hammer (go for a 20oz estwing), a hand saw, maybe a set of chisels (marples splitproof or bacho), maybe...

I want to make some plantation shutters but I am struggling to find anything in the way of hardware for keeping the louvres under tension. Has anyone made any of these before? And could they give some info on how to keep them under tension. From what I can find, most have some sort of pin that...

Also consider allowing some air flow behind the membrane just incase you end up pushing the dampness somewhere else where is can start trouble. These older places often rely on being able to breathe. Yeah, you could do that by putting some 2x1 battens on the wall first to allow air to...

what about putting a back on the unit with a moisture resistant membrane between that and the wall. That would stop any damp getting to the books inside the unit.

Seems like a lot of hassle, when you could just pin them and achieve the same results. Everyone has thier own way though.

Using standard PVA Wood glue. Just to check, are you talking about Arc's as in, around a door frame?

I have used the glue and pin technique with oak arc's and sapele arc's. These where not painted and i have not had any problems with them opening up. If the mitre is accurate then the glue will stick them together and the pins will prevent the mitre from moving / coming apart. I will say that it...

I always glue the mitre, no biscuits, then put a pin in through the top of the mitre to hold in place.

Maybe try using biscuits, or a tongue to join, as these will help align the joint, provide a larger surface area for glue, and also the biscuit joint will help hold together. There are also some router bits that produce a finger joint for this purpose, which again provides a larger surface area...

I bought the T15 + 3 Li about 5 months ago. Very good drill, nice and light to use and has a lot more power than it seems when in use, I have had one problem though, in that when driving in screws the trigger sometimes sticks and carries on spinning causing the bit to jump or drive the screw too...

Have a look at the Atkinson Walker blades on Workshop Heaven. They look very good. Think I am going to order one for the flip over saw.

Thanks 9fingers. Thats what I was after a definite answer. Just thought id check because you never know, might of been simple, and could of saved a bit of money. Thanks again.

Well, money is quite tight at the moment, and if it only cost me £40 or £50 to convert then it would be worth it yes. Just want someone to answer who knows if it is or not. Thanks.

The extractor is 110v, so it has a round 110v socket on the front where 110v power tools would plug into it to use with the extractor. My tools are all 240v. So I would (if worth it, because i would be getting the extractor about £120 chaper than it should be) want to convert the extractor to a...

Why is it not worth it? Do you know how much it would cost to do? Also you don't know how much I would be paying for the extractor so unless you know how much the bits would cost to do it, not sure how you can come to that conclusion. Thanks anyway.

I know I could use a transformer. But I want to be able to plug my sander etc into the extractor on the front, but this is 110v connection and my power tools, sander, router etc are all 240v. Just want to know if it can be coverted really and if it is worth it?

How hard is it to convert a power tool from 110v to 240v? I am looking at a second hand portable dust extractor, it is a good price, but is 110v and all my tools are 240v, if it wouldn't cost too much, or be too much hastle to convert I would be tempted to buy it. Interested to hear if anyone...

I have got mixed up with the KSS300. Sorry, my mistake. Your right the KSS400 doesn't come with a flexi rail and the 1.6m track is more expensive than the festool version. I still like this saw though as i like the short 400mm rail with the angle lock. Although they do the MT55CC, that is very...

The kss400 comes as standard with the short cutting rail that locks off at all angles for trimming, it also comes with the roll up flexi rail as standard. Im not sure, but i don't think the festool comes with similar attatchments. Then it can also be used with mafells bigger rails. I know the...