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Bring the wood in to the kitchen and leave it on edge just turn it round now and again just to see what it does. Piece of beech that wide will probably keep on moving depending how thick it is but it will give you good planing practice. Consider making your board by laminating strips together...

If you can get a hole drilled in the broken piece, difficult, then you can use a tool called an Easy Out to remove it. Be careful though because they are made of pretty hard steel and can break easily if you lean on them. I think I would take it to the nearest motorbike shop they remove that...

Probably would not work with burnishing cream or a burnishing cloth either. Oddly the same result can be obtained using a sharpening steel on softer steel knives. Never worked with razors so no idea you would even attempt that with linen let alone succeed but then anything harder would damage...

It's like polishing or sharpening without removing any metal :wink: The strop actually has magical properties whereby it replaces metal, fills in any scratches and makes the edge sharper.

If you look closely at the first pic you will see that although the screw is actually shaped conically it has a flat on the end and as I said it tightens down on the circumference of the flat. Makes sense to me to have a conical end all the way and so a single point of contact but my two are not...

According to Chris Pye strop is an older form of strap meaning "a strip of leather", he does mention loading the strop with a fine abrasive although I do not know if this was standard practice among barbers of old. So I would say that stropping means the action of improving or enhancing the edge...

All Bailey type planes new or old have that slack in the depth adjuster you get used to it. You should be able to get your dad's plane in to a good user regardless of the lump missing. If you can't then it is a waste of time buying another plane off ebay or elsewhere, well sorted planes are rare...

I think the CB and blade should be locked down together when tightened underneath where the cap screw makes contact. The cap screw on my two contacts the CB at an angle so that just the edge of the flat on the end of the cap screw makes contact with the irons. I do not tighten the cap screw down...

Important thing is that each stone in the progression should remove the scratch pattern left by the previous stone and your 8k should leave you with a finished edge but not necessarily mirror finished. Your 3k should cut faster than your 8k, if it is clogging easily then it could just be that it...

Certainly would not recommend PM-V11 blades for a beginner and the OP was not one of those. Get some new Record blades cheap enough, coarse and fine India stones, honing oil, baby oil will do and have at it. Can't get a sharp edge and you wont then use a jig until you can get a sharp edge...

If you want to plate the steel you will have to spend a lot of time polishing the steel to a mirror finish, anything else will look dreadful. I will make sure I get all the old plating off, kill the rust and go for a brushed steel job. All handwork but your fingers are your best friend plus...

I got hold a couple of #7's at the weekend for not a lot, a US SB and a Record both appear to be pre WW11. Paint is lifting so I will clean all the loose stuff back, degrease and apply some anti-rust treatment. If they still look rough then I will probably consider repainting them which will...

Thanks Corneel that says it a whole lot better and more correct than I did. I would ask though that if LN quote their A2 hardness at 60-62, LV quote 62-63 for their PM-V11 why the PM-V11 is stated as easier to sharpen. I do not notice any difference between the two on my stones but I do notice...

I have a Gyuto made from HAP40 and it takes no more time to sharpen than any other steel just use the right stones. Of course hand grinding a big mortise chisel might be something else again but I will never have one so no problem, PM-V11 is no harder to sharpen than any other steel. PM steels...

I wonder if DW turned off the power before licking the filament? For a while it seemed every decent stone I turned up in one of those house clearance emporiums was a Washita buried under years of muck, all the salesman wanted to sell me was the nice box it came in. Dread to think how many have...

Think the knife boys know what it is and the tool market is a lot smaller than that for kitchen knives. Might even be a PM designed and made in the US. I don't think it is HAP40 but it is quite corrosion resistant and mine self magnetise which is a pain.

Then they are good blades and I have used them, also called Samurai and I think Harima. Suggest reading veritas-pmv-ii-plane-blades-t70487.html Pretty much the same thing with the usual wrangling from the same suspects but the PM-V11 actually cost over 50 quid then with a much better exchange...

Are those Tsunesaburo irons the same as Smoothcut? No longer cheap in the UK £36.80 plus P&P plus the dreaded customs duty and Parcel Forces cut if they catch you. I don't know why Stanley and Record can't make blades the way they used to or even the planes themselves, not a big enough market I...

Yes.

Cost for a double iron at Axminster is just over 80 quid. I got mine from Fine Tools which used to be a lot cheaper and yes monopolies stink! Slotted straight in to a Record 5 1/2 but a Stanley Bailey might need a little mouth work. I prefer the Bailey cap iron but you might not and no it is not...