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Pretty much how I flatten my SiC water stones and what Stu recommends. I usually use a grit twice as coarse as the stone so for a Sigma 120 I use 60 grit which is just about the coarsest grit I can find anyway. I do use 10mm float glass having found that toughened glass is definitely not flat...

The replacement steel yoke from Matthew needed the hole enlarging to fit my Record 5 1/2, obviously you will need the original pin. It fitted straight into another Record and a Stanley. The pin supplied is a little shorter than the original but seems to work well enough and stays put.

Would not know what I am looking for with Stanley blades and the various secondhand tool sellers seem to call everything vintage. A2 is OK but I only use it for cleaning up sawn timber where the chips don't matter much. Never paid that much money, $400, for a knife so I would not know, all...

I don't have old Stanleys but probably 70's era Records plus a late Stanley and they did need a bit of work plus the blades are not good IMO. The blades were replaced with Smoothcut Japanese laminated blades which proved to be far better and quite cheap at the time. What really transformed mine...

As with everything there is the law of diminishing returns and none of my knives are hand forged AFAIK, paying £800 and upwards for one that is seems a bit daft but I do appreciate the work that goes into such a blade. So if you can find no difference between a £2 bottle of wine and a £10 one...

Very true BugBear I have watched the market fish guys filleting and they keep their knives very sharp and not the sort of knife you see sold now as a filleting knife. Long and wide two swipes and that's a large cod filleted with minimal wastage, quick touch up and on to the next. Cast steel...

Right. I've inherited a family carving set (3rd generation could be 100 years old) which is ordinary Sheffield steel (not stainless) with ordinary bone handles. It's been sharpened with a steel all this time, with nobody having the faintest idea about "edge geometry" but it has always cut...

You don't get much sales literature with Japanese knives and I would not buy a knife endorsed by some TV chef so I do some research and go for it. Never used a high carbon Japanese knife but perhaps one day I have heard they can be made a lot sharper than PM knives. The usual suspect for a knife...

Would never have thought of that :oops: Thanks for the tip Jacob but I was actually talking about knife bevels which vary from <10 degrees to 20 degrees each side that is if you have a 50/50 bevel. Yep 30 degrees sounds about right except when it isn't like with mortise chisels and hard wood...

Regardless of the steel used you still have to understand edge geometry and learn how to sharpen, no idea if I am efficient or not. Having a knife made out of HAP40 still means you have to sharpen it they don't arrive sharp OOTB but they do keep an edge for a long time and are a lot tougher than...

I don't do this for a living I do it because I enjoy it and my tools end up sharp enough for me so no need to change what I do. Another sharpening requirement I have is for Japanese kitchen knives which I use a lot and also enjoy sharpening, really a flat stone is the only way to go for those...

Indeed I can do what I like and it takes no more effort or skill to create a flat bevel than it does a convex bevel as long as your stone is flat. Do you use a rounded bevel on your gouges? I don't have/can't afford a grinder so the concave sharpening route is out for me and creating a primary...

While I do normally hand sharpen I still make sure the stones are flat. At present making some end grain chopping boards for friends and family so lot of sharpening needed and a LV BU Jack my weapon of choice. I do use a jig to sharpen these blades and I can't imagine a situation where I could...

Flat single bevel on Japanese chisels, flat primary plus honed secondary on old steel chisels and plane irons. Waterstones only and flat really means "flattish".

Hi, I have a Norris #1 2 1/2" infill and require a double iron for it. I purchased the plane along with a Matthieson from Bristol Design years ago and the plane never had the Norris cap iron with it. We did manage to find another cap iron that fitted. Over the years the plane has done sterling...