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I bought a big old floor standing pillar drill a few years ago. The seller had already taken the head off the top of the column, and warned me it was fooking heavy. When I got it home I had intended to lift the top back on with my engine crane. Unfortunately the ceiling in my workshop wasn't...

I found it took a bit of getting used to, working with your hands whilst looking straight ahead at the screen. But very handy. My go to tool when working on any watch with a calendar ring. The screws that typically hold them in place are tiny. Looking at them under a microscope they are...

Same approach here with the reading glasses. When I recently got new prescription glasses I spoke to the lady at Specsavers, and now have a prescription set with 4x magnification, which is the strength I most often use. They are great. I have tried all sorts of on the head stuff and lenses. All...

I would have it but too far away. I am guessing a courier would want it on a pallet? If you can get it to me in Bedfordshire, obviously at appropriate extra cost, then I am definitely interested.

No idea. I have certainly kept citric acid mix in a sealed plastic container for a couple of months with no obvious loss of omph. To be honest it is so quick and cheap to make a batch I tend to just put it down the sink once it starts to get too dirty and make a fresh batch.

If you have a bench grinder then the scotchbrite type discs are very good and come in various grades. Just need to get a suitable size adaptor for your grinder.

I agree, huge difference between removing rust to make a tool useable, and going mad. For removal from something that is going to be put to work I usually just use a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Might use chemicals or grit blasting if it's really bad, but always finish with the wire wheel...

Spot on. This is the man who could even manage to bankrupt casinos. Good business man ? Pull the other one.

I don't think it's no good as such, but it will get them hot more than CBN. I have a Parkside variable speed single wheel sander, which I have modified to take diamond lapping discs. These work a treat to put a final edge on mostly metal working lathe tools in my case, both HSS and carbide...

I think the perception that Aluminium Oxide is harder comes from the fact that it is generally used in fairly coarse grades, so does last longer than the usually much finer grades in wet and dry paper for example.

Not necessarily any use for you, but sometimes useful to use car air filters. My compressor has the air filter housing from an old mini. The air filters to fit are far cheaper than the originals, and much bigger so last much longer. Many cars now use flat rectangular filters, easily fitted into...

Reminded me of our Mac. He loved snow would go berserk running about in it. A combination of very short legs and being very generously endowed for such a small dog meant that the end would drag through the snow. Never seemed to bother him, but used to make me wince watching him :-)

Robin, your Tilly looks so like our Heinz 57, Mac, it brought a tear to my eye.

Just be aware that citric or phosphoric acid, and evaporust, will remove finishes like bluing. I know some of my dad's chisels had blued ferrules. You can protect from evaporust by coating with clear nail varnish. Don't know if that will work equally with citric acid, never tried it on anything...

I generally use a razor blade. Bevel side of the cutting edge down. They are flexible enough to be bent flat against the flat surface of a box or table, then just pull around at a shallow angle. The bevel on the blade leaves the trimmed piece a fraction of a mm proud. Then block and paper to...

Wet and dry silicon carbide is great, if you can use it wet, otherwise it clogs very quickly. And as sideways says it blunts quickly, so you need to change it regularly.

Only real way to remove pits on anything that is hardened, or going to used in a bare metal state, is to grind them out. Whether that is desirable, will depend on the position and depth of the pits. If the object will be painted then use car body filler, after thoroughly removing the rust either...

I have an old Hayter harrier, just lift the deck up a bit and it Hoover's up the leaves a treat.

I have been looking at these. Yes they are expensive, but how long to you get out of a typical Co2 or powder one, not 50 seconds I would have thought? And they are good for 15 years, and no maintenance required, way better than other types. So if you weigh it all up they aren't actually any more...