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I think you can take anything "Business Insider" says with a very large pinch of salt - not least because they use US data and prices, even on the UK site. That said, texting has always been expensive in the US vs UK/Europe, hence the proliferation of 'more texts included in your bundle than...

If you decide to go for glass then laminated is probably a better bet than safety glass, just from a security viewpoint. HTH Pete

CT17 is the old Protool VCP 171 / 70 E re-badged as a Festool. Specs are comparable with the Festool CTL lineup, you just don't get to store the hose inside it or latch systainers onto it, obviously. Standard hose may not be anti-static, might be worth checking the specs?? HTH Pete

Track saw (+multimaster for the ends) works really well for cutting through the plasterboard. Also EasyFill + sander is really good for hiding the joins - might save having the wall skimmed. HTH P

Drill/drivers are generally lighter than combis, though unless you're using daily for hours at a time I'm not sure you'd notice the difference - mite be worth checking the specs though?? HTH Peter

+1 more for adding a moulding - wouldn't go near that with a router. As it is, that corner joint is going to need a bit of work :/

Re. finishes for Birch ply; I generally use Junckers Strong satin lacquer - quick drying, easy to apply with a foam roller, durable finish and doesn't darken the wood too much. HTH, Peter

Yeah, decent grit on an ETS and it's way more than just a finish sander, IMHO - so much so that I didn't bother to replace my Rotex 150 when it died, just stuck with my ETS 150/5. Mostly use the remaining Rotex 125 and 90 for paint stripping etc... Also have ETS 150/3 and ETS 125 (2mm stroke) -...

I was going to say that I've never known anyone buy a Festool and regretted it, but I guess that's the one regret you may have, lol! @Marineboy. I have the older, (non-EC) ETS 150/5 and it's my main go-to sander for most things, and will do most things admirably. In case you're not aware, as...

I use 3M Peltor 3 in the workshop, and banded Moldex earplugs when installing, or working with a face mask - the banded earplugs still need to be 'screwed in' to get a good fit, but once they're in they stay put and work well. Those Hertz earplugs look interesting - thanks for the link! Reading...

Dominos, for preference. Alternating dominos and screws will also work, as would any of dzj's suggestions - housings, pins etc...

I like the Blum tip-on linked above with unsprung hinges. Work well.

Couple of quid a roll? Sounds pretty good - if you use 25mm abrasive strip. Out of interest, what would you use something like this for??

Lol, nobody's *ever* made anything 4" shorter than it needs to be using a talmeter #-o - though it's the kind of thing you only do once!

Bear in mind that the flip-out pointy bit on the festool/BMI tape relates to the hole in the tape, not the end stop - so perhaps not as handy as you might think. Also, try a YouTube search for "tape measure tricks" - you'll find 'scribing an arc' is a staple of many measures. I think the...

3 meter tape with a thin blade is a bad idea, whoever it's made by; I have the Festool/BMI tape (somewhere...) but stopped using it ages ago as it was too flimsy - you could barely extend the tape halfway before it collapses under its own weight. I use the old (pre-Hultafors) Talmeter tapes - 3m...

Too much suction and the sander gets sucked onto the workpiece making it harder to control, esp if you're doing fine finishing. That said, it's not something I use very often, and have been using the non-variable suction CTL Sys for the last year or so without any problems at all. Getting back...

Happy to be proven wrong, but IME you'll struggle to find a double extension undermount drawer runner that's 900mm.

Nothing wrong with Resin W, though I prefer PolyTen PVA for the 10 minute grab time, works really well. Haven't used Tricoya MDF, but it works well on all other types, though as always I'd try a test sample first.

Yep, 18mm T&G chipboard loft boards were made for this, much lighter than MDF and perfectly adequate for the job. Be aware they're not T&G all round, just on the long sides.