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Hi Chas But that with all due respect is where I came in - I'm really asking the question of how does one level and true the lathe without things like an ultra sensitive level ? That actually is what my original question was !! :? But then perhaps, unlike a metal working lathe where the tool...

Chas I will go back in the morning and take the packing pieces out and repeat my run-out measurement, but it is now +/- 5 thou. over 25 inches. The longest piece of gash wood I could find this afternoon was an old sledge hammer shaft (therefore likely to be ash), which I centred at both ends...

Sorry Blister, I didn't present the question correctly. If you were turning such a piece, and we don't know how dry the wood is I will give you, is your post a recommendation for making such a large base hollow in that that would inhibit this cracking ? Rob

Miles I'm guessing Miles is on the early part of the learning curve and I/we wish him all the best as he climbs up it (clearly metaphorical in his case) and hence this reply is perhaps a bit academic at this stage for him. Your comment about not having any part of the hand on the 'wrong' side...

Blister - are you suggesting that the base should have been turned out, possibly first. Or perhaps you are meaning that attempting to make it all in once piece was 'ambitious' (polite way of saying 'in error' :oops: ) Rob

I expect this has been addressed before but I'm not finding anything in a search. I've got a good "old fashioned" CI base lathe (Wadkins Bursgreen). I've had it for a year or so (first lathe) and was slightly surprised the other day when a shaft I was turning wouldn't go back onto the centres...

Not only a perfect answer but it comes within 6 minutes !! =D> Many thanks indeed, Janos. There's hope for my masterpiece yet. Rob

The hole was drilled with a 25mm Forstner bit, measured with calipers and the spigot turned to match. The 25mm long spigot is a bit looser than I would like for gluing despite everything measuring the same - what have others done in this situation? It's a blind hole and I will probably insert...

Chas - I initially wrote a challenge to your Jaguar's wiring diagram as I failed to pick up on the fact that 'MC' is 'Magnetic Contactor' - better to find these things first before showing ignorance. :roll:. I don't know about the Jaguar, but the Teco 7300 CV I have can be set to switch off...

Paul Your input is from someone who is in the professional world. I think you are incorrect in raising all sorts of ghosts for the amateur and DIY environment - I consider that you are scare mongering, perhaps not deliberately, but because you take your job seriously and think that what applies...

I stand corrected ! And actually went out to the workshop to see what the box did on a mains failure. Really suprisiing - I did expect the electronics to be sensitive to that and shut down. An NVR it is going to have to be then - thanks for alerting me to that. I'll have to look at the other...

Interesting - why use an NVR switch when the box has emergency stop capability which will stop the motor quicker as it will ramp the frequency down faster than free run ? I don't see the need for an NVR when a 13A switched and fused outlet with an indicator light on it seems perfectly adequate...

Not my experience Chas, and I've set up 4 within the last 2 years. Straight out of box, yes, if you are not using remote control, but the moment you do that it's a different game and really control on the lathe is essential in my opinion, plus you really do have to have an emergency stop...

Hi Wallace - sounds a good deal, go for it. The one thing you will now want to look for is a wired remote control pad for the lathe working position - you really do not want to have to control the speed etc by pressing the buttons on the inverter, nor do you want to have to switch it on and off...

With all due respect I think that sounds a bit on the cheap side if it is a new unit - see if you can get the manufacturer and part number from him and I'll have a look at the spec. For price guidance go to Ebay and dial this in "inverter phase 415v -(rotary)", and you will see why I'm a bit...

It's the 'value engineering' part that is the driver as it is easy enough to arrange switch gear that activates the brake OFF and yet inhibits power getting to the motor, or come to that any other part of the machine. Rob

Hi Wallace You don't say where you are, but I would back up the motor rewire suggestion. Certainly if you can get a package for £200-300 that is a good deal. One particular asset of induction motors is that they are mechanically so simple that they are a dawdle to take apart - apart from...

Andy I don't know if you were around in the middle of last year, but Dibs organised a table insert multi-buy. I bought one, including spare rings and found that the set wasn't suitable for my table and I would be quite glad to sell it off. If you go to the Jigs and Fixtures forum and search...

An addition to my explanation of the brake on the Sheppach bandsaw. A major problem with this configuration is that the brake is default on, and there is no way of releasing it without powering the motor. OK the default status is fine as a safety feature, but it does mean that it is near...

Hi Eric PM sent. I'll answer the brake query here for all to see !! The back end of the motor has a coil mounted on the body together with two steel plates mounted on 3 stand-offs, the inner plate being spring loaded. The end of the shaft has a sliding plate with brake material on both sides...