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Thats because they literally were banned from broadcasting on FTA TV here in Australia for DECADES (and after a considerable donation to the Libs party fund, were suddenly allowed (a very limited) FTA licence- however their ratings have never gotten into the double digit level and they are...

God, theres something I haven't heard of for years lol- they were big back in the nineties for a while, offering 'international drivers licences and passports' for those wanting to 'stop being a corporate body'

Sovcits predate both trumpers and antivaxxers (they date back to the 1980's tax protestors)- but there's a considerable 'cross fertilisation' between the various groups (believers in one conspiracy theory tend to be 'less than critical thinkers'...)

Another common sovcit trope is when asked by the police if they understand their rights, they always reply no... Because in sovcit world- to 'stand under' the police means you have 'entered into a contract with them' and if if you don't do that, then they can't arrest you.... Hence the 'no...

The shed I mentioned before that I made the alarm up for is my stepfathers (with some VERY nice kit inside) less than two weeks after having it built and moving everything inside, it was (successfully) broken into- by them putting a pipe wrench on the factory doorknob and simply twisting it...

'Mr Sparky, the sovcit off button' aka a taser...

Sadly they are very common worldwide these days and numerous examples can be found in most countries... I been watching their antics gong back a couple of decades the names change, but the same old BS comes from them, regardless of what they choose to call themselves- Moors, Freeman on the Land...

The simplest system would cost almost zero ... Get a key switch, wire it to a cheap piezo 'screamer' siren and a 12v power supply with a NC magnetic switch and a relay with NC contacts ... Wire the PSU with the magnetic reed switch in the positive lead then to the relay coil, and the negative...

Actually choc blocks dont have that good a safety record, and have caused many issues with high resistance joints causing damage over the years- in some cases causing the risk of fires... Thermal cycling can cause them to become high resistance longterm... Indeed just last week, I had to replace...

We only drop a 2 core (red/white) from the light fitting here (no neutral or earth required for the dropper) for a single switch with lights having a 3 core TPE running from light fitting to light fitting, with a loop at the light for the two core dropper to the switch (that took some getting...

Well you would be wrong lol- I did my apprenticeship back in the early 1980's, and have been doing electricals since getting my trade papers back then (dealing mostly with commercial installs rather than light duty 'home sparky work'... but yes I've done some of those too...as well as getting my...

The main reason the 'loops in the roof with droppers' was used was lower cost/less wiring over the run in TPE from the light to the switch and back again... (one TPE from lamp to lamp, with a twin wire dropper to the switch, versus a 3 wire TPE from the lamp to the switch and back again-...

We still use them even for LED or downlights, not only for lamp batten bases... (imagine the nightmare if you had to run each light back to the switch lol- my mums place has about 8 downlights- 9x 1.5mm TPE running to the switch- urgh...) ;-) The standard LED downlights can accept two or three...

When did the DP requiement for the switch come in?- it was only a single pole when I did UK spec wiring... (seems a bit silly as the DP switches are considerably more expensive and the standard outlets only use a single pole switch internally and are functionally identical...) That would make...

I'm just doing the washing up for breakfast lol Nothing dodgy about it- many older houses were wired with 'lamp base to lamp base' for the feeds with just a pair of 'droppers' for each switch (and still are here) and a s 'switch with permanent feed and switched active return' is extremely common...

It iwasn't a requirement when I did UK wiring- and I haven't seen it in the BS regs (although I'll admit mine aren't quite up to date anymore- no point wasting the money on something I'll never use again lol) There's nothing 'dodgy' about not having a neutral at a switch- in fact it is quite...

Neutral isn't required (although could be added using a 5 core cable but i would simply have to be capped at the back of the new switches, so totally redundant) and as noted at the time in the edit, it should have shown an earth going up to the switches as well (not required here lol, and its...

So its wired in the old BS standard colours then (ie red/black/bare earth with green sleeve fitted) to be 'legal' the new spur 'should' be in the new colours ;-) (but then it should also be done by a licenced electrician as well these days too lol) Wago's are fine (in fact they are the only...

Both diagrams in my second post are functionally identical (just using the 'old' and the 'new' colours)- but using the second one as it makes it clearer - the original ring circuit would be on the left (in the 'old' colours ie red/black/green')- it is left fully intact and functional- with the...

Actually I showed a ring circuit- the ring is left joined on the left side of the circuit, with the twin outlets being on a pair of twin fused spurs...(the new wiring spur going up to the top to the switches, and then down to the two new single outlets on the right...) So the ring is left fully...