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I pushed an endgrain chopping board over the top of my planer, with sharp knives and a fine cut setting, and it was one of the scariest experiences I've had in the workshop. Luckily, the board was relatively flat to start with, and I'd used Cascamite, otherwise I dread to think what would have...

He's doing wildlife photography, so this advice is wrong.

It's more a figure of speech, but if you produce an identical cropped image and a non cropped image (which obviously shows more), and you then increase the size of the cropped image until it is the same size as the non-cropped one, (or decrease the non-cropped one to the size of the cropped)...

It was me with the bog oak. I have literally tons of it. However, Cumbria isn't exactly around the corner from Suffolk......

Your "reach" is just the same with full frame or not-full-frame (I'm sure there's a word for this!). It's just that the not-full-frame camera digitally crops and enlarges your image, which makes it look like it has zoomed further than the full-frame camera. It hasn't.

These are the key words.

Warning: pestle technique controversy........ :lol: No, no, you put your thumb on the top, and grip the shaft with your palm. The eye would be nothing more than a minor inconvenience.

The other possibility is a fisherman's priest. But I suspect it is a pestle.

Have you tried drawing the top with the boards running the other way? It looks a little odd with the boards being parallel to the short edge, and the breadboard ends being on the long edges. :lol: :lol: :lol: =D>

Yeah, that looks better. I think the idea of slats for the bottom shelf is to have proper gaps......20mm or something. Two mm looks like you've just made a mistake. Narrow slats (say 40/ 45mm) and gaps of 15 or 20mm and the appearance would be very different. I'm not sure I agree with the idea...

I would move the rails inboard, I think, and have the shelf overhang them, but still finish inside the outer line of the legs. You can lose one button from each rail and still have too many! :)

I think mounting it in a rebate is a poor idea, and will led to problems as the wood moves. It also doesn't look great, and these are good reasons that you don't see shelves done this way. Mount the lower shelf in the same way as the top, on slimmer rails than you propose, and use buttons. Build...

My mum had a cup of tea with my father when he was building a workshop of corrugated asbestos, 45/ 50 years ago, and she is now dying of peritoneal mesothelioma. The "peritoneal" part of it means she ingested a fibre, rather than inhaling it, so it probably fell into her tea. She is making...

I think I see just a hint of sapwood here and there. Try not to use the pale stuff at the edge of boards, as it is soft and prone to rot and insect attack.

Well, that's been a fantastic project for lockdown, and you're 95%+ done. Huge congratulations. =D> =D> =D> =D>

Don't know. I'll check next time I get the chance.

You can do that, Dom, but think very carefully. It works both ways, because gaps let the water in, but they also let water out. Make sure you don't create a little pocket where water can get trapped inside the structure.

Interesting, because the 4-4-4 slim DGUs used in heritage work are always puttied into place with traditional putty, around here. I'll ask what the story is when I get the chance.

Look, these things have been explained to you repeatedly in this thread. Telling you that is not being condescending, and is nothing to do with my years of experience. All the information you need is here in this thread, and in the threads I have linked you to. All you have to do is follow the...

Am I missing something? Why not just use putty?