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Jismacgregor

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Hi,

I am going to make a chessboard but would like to ask the experts some advice first. It would seem that there are three methods of making the chessboard:
1) Veneer on man-made board. I can see that this is probably the best solution and will avoid movement of the wood being a problem. But how hard-wearing and resilient is veneer? I could use/make thicker veneer (say 2mm) which would certainly solve this issue.
2) Blocks of wood. Quite simple to make especially with a table saw. But what about wood movement. I can see this could be a real issue, especially as you are joining different woods together which probably have different expansion rates.
3) End Grain blocks of wood. Again simple to make with a table saw, but if you want 50mm squares (as I do), you need to start with two very thick pieces of wood.

Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks

James Macgregor
 
I'd do alternate veneer strips bonded to paper.
once done cut into strips again, so you have alternating square veneers, bond onto paper again.
then once done bond the complete veneer chess board to a subbase. unpapered face down. Sand off paper at the end. it's how I was taught to do them.
 
doctor Bob":1izqtj0w said:
I'd do alternate veneer strips bonded to paper.
once done cut into strips again, so you have alternating square veneers, bond onto paper again.
then once done bond the complete veneer chess board to a subbase. unpapered face down. Sand off paper at the end. it's how I was taught to do them.

interesting method!
Any particular type of paper?
 
Re Dr Bob - at a guess probably gummed brown paper veneer/packing tape
the method you use is in the main dictated by the material used as the ground for the veneer. If I was using MDF then I would do as Dr Bob. If making the squares from solid wood then I would probably (for speed and ease) veneer a piece a bit longer and wider with each type and then run em on the saw to size and glue up and then veneer a single piece of backing veneer on the other side with the grain running in the same direction for all the parts and then do a hidden tenon mitre joint for the corners and breadboard the ends with draw board dowels.
 
Whatever method you use, measure carefully and before you cut check, check, check, check ...

(sorry all, its a slow afternoon here)
 
I was taught to make it from veneer in a similar fashion as described above. Cut 9 strips of veneer and tape them on the back with masking tape and glue them together. Making a stripey piece of veneer. Then turn it 90 degrees and cut strips. You then move each alternate strip one square north and glue together again.

My only concern is the hardiness of veneer as the customer wants this to be a working, but long lasting (family heirloom) chessboard. But I guess I answered my own question in that the solution to this is to use thicker veneer.

Now I have to find some dark veneer to use for black squares. The customer wanted African Blackwood, but my ethics won't allow me to use an endangered tree which comes from our already destroyed rainforests.
 
Jismacgregor":3p602iy5 said:
Now I have to find some dark veneer to use for black squares. The customer wanted African Blackwood, but my ethics won't allow me to use an endangered tree which comes from our already destroyed rainforests.


I think someone on here had some bog oak they where selling......could look good as the dark veneer.



Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
 
I see from your profile you are based in Gibraltar. Makes popping around to see it and pick some up a little impractical!
 
It was me with the bog oak. I have literally tons of it. However, Cumbria isn't exactly around the corner from Suffolk......
 
Jismacgregor":c6xj6ldb said:
I see from your profile you are based in Gibraltar. Makes popping around to see it and pick some up a little impractical!

Birmingham actually! I will update my profile :D
 

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