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I thought of that, too! No, really, I did!! Lol.

Hmmm Good point. In that case, I'll be gluing a small thin piece of something to the back of the wood, so it only contacts the non-toothy part of the blade... :oops:

No big news to anyone probably, but I found it useful: A piece of wood held against the blade by a small magnet glued to it. Saves making test cuts.

Ok, got it. 3rd port of call. That's 3 places'll be giving me sympathetic looks for a while. Cheers!

Was that intended the way I read it? :oops: Thanks - I'll rub it in rather than the other way!

Not an answer to the energy crisis, but... I'm making a cutting board in a hurry, and "mineral oil" seems to be the stuff to use to finish with. Only one question: what is it? :roll: Can I just go into Boots or the Sainsbury's pharmacy and ask for it? Or is there a brand of moisturiser or...

Amazing! I was scratching my head for ages.... I think a hole cutter would be a bit coarse, and unfortunately it won't go on a lathe, and I need (ie: in an ideal world, 'would like'!) the original wood in the middle part, but I should have thought of the router/dremel way. I'd need to practice...

Hi again. I need to cut a nice clean circular groove about 35mm dia, 2 or 3mm thick, maybe 4 or 5mm deep, with no centreing hole in the middle. I searched the inet for a special tool with no luck, then scratched my head, and now I'm thinking of grinding a flat bit to be something like this...

Overwhelmed by mass of super-helpful advice. The Polishing Shop looks like an incredible improvement over B&Q for flap wheel prices. .... and Paul - in that first photo, the left-hand rasp looks a lot like my "Sandvik Ergo" - does that mean it's not too bad? I can't remember where I got it...

You can get different grades of rasp?? And wood files??? :roll: See, my knowledge is coming at a slow drip... Thanks for the other suggestions, but I think I like the idea of rasps/files best for a curved-all-ways surface, unless anyone's experience is different? And now I know you don't just...

Hi - Smoothing odd-shaped oak is more of a chore than I expected... How did they do it in the olden days fgs? I've rasped it into shape, not too bad but left very rough finish, then thought hand-sanding would be ok... ha ha! No chance. So now I'm trying to use a flap wheel (about 2" dia) in...

Hi again. Ok thanks. Yes, I probably can make it tomorrow (Fri). Do you want to send me your phone number or email addr in a Message? Btw, I got it from a woodyard about 6 months ago. They'd had it for a while, but I don't know how long. Graham

Red listed??

Hi - Well (Mr Wizer), I'm into making round tabletops at the moment... is any of yours in board or panel form, 20 - 25mm? If so, I'm going to see my Mum in Grays on Sunday, so that would be easy for me? I don't know about the poison splinters - I got one yesterday and I'm still urrrrrrrrrgh

Hi to both - yes, dimensions in cm. I'm looking for a piece or pieces 20mm thick, maybe 15 at a push, and able to be made into squares maybe 35 - 40 cm on a side? I must say Kent is nearer than Uttoexeter, but the darker & more workable (but not soft) the wood the better. (I'll probly have to...

Hi - I'm trying to turn a flat piece of wenge (41cm dia), and it's like turning bakelite! It's $%^$%^ing hard! I have Crown tools - would I expect to resharpen every minute or so, and still not make much progress? Anyway, I've still got a fairly large piece left, about 130 x 41.5 x 2cm, not to...

Derek, thanks - the Trylon is supposed to be for colouring casting resin, so I was just guessing it would be in roughly the same family as RPC. It's a bit of a mystery, as it's only happening to the table legs. Test pieces (above pic, and various other small pieces of the same wood and...

I lightly sanded and RPC'd again. Covered the silvery patches well. But after a couple of days they reappeared. So I skipped the sanding before RPCing again. Again they were covered over nicely, but after another couple of days, there they are again! Not so much, but still there. It's like...

Hi - Sorry for not making it clear that the sanding disc I'm talking about is one on the lathe, like this: (incidentally, the paper is held on with double-sided sticky, which works well and is muy economical). Anyway, even with 40-grit it turns this from the bandsaw... into this...

Hmmm.... ok, but I'm not convinced. I bet if I turned the wood over before presenting it to the disc it'd get just as good a finish... I think it's something to do with the solidity of the connection between wood & abrasive: Using the disc, the abrasive paper can't really move backwards...