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I must be getting old, I had to read that several times before I got my head around it, suddenly the light bulb went on as I reached for my beer :idea: :D I could do, but I also have the old nutlink belts so could resort to putting that back on if necessary. I'll see if the two new belts fit...

Which saw is it? From the sofa I don't recognise the part, do you have a wider diagram or photo of where the part is located? I have a 351E, if the part exists on my saw I can measure it tomorrow.

Not much progress, busy on building work, however I did get chance to look at the belts. The top belt looked a bit smaller than the A54, I guessed an A51 then I searched for Viceroy belts, which I should have done in the first place, and a guy on the Denford forum just recently changed his belts...

Do you have the round or diamond shaped rivet model? I can vaguely remember being well and truly annoyed after sending back the Faithful "squares" and looking for a vendor that tested them before dispatch without costing an arm and a leg. The round rivet cheaper models have no mention of...

Toolman squares, made in Sheffield. I bought several Faithful squares, one out of three was close enough to be called a square, I didn't even think they could get that wrong! I bought one Toolman and it was bang on and they get good reviews so probably not a fluke.

I only had 10 minutes today, just enough to get the intermediate pulley out. First undo the upper belt tensioning adjusters completely. You have to do this a bit on each side at time. These are indicated in red below. Once out the pulley drops away, its aluminium so not heavy but you don't...

Well, we have the shaft out, it wasn't a big struggle but involved a bit of jiggling. I don't have any photos of it in progress. My neighbour is more used to bearing removal than me, he works as a toolmaker in the aerospace industry, I fly a desk in IT :) We didn't need any pressure from clamps...

I had an hour at this morning, I had to make it look like I was working on putting the floor in the new extension but managed to do get a bit done during my frequent trips to the workshop for "tools" :) First put the spindle lock mechanism back on, lock the spindle and tap the lock nut with a...

I managed to get an hour in today before the youngest's brass band concert took precedence. The bearings and belts arrived yesterday. I took the outboard headstock alloy cover off revealing a locking collar and a locking nut. There are two allen grub screws needed to take the collar off. You...

I used an airline to clear out the oil journals on my tom senior mill, they were full of old solidified grease as a previous owner had incorrectly assumed they were grease nipples not oilers. It was very satisfying, a bit like squeezing a huge blackhead :) I didn't have those tubes though...

I went ahead and ordered the SFK bearings, having read into it, the C3 clearance won't make much difference but the 30% improvement in efficiency in 3 sets of bearings may add up to a bit more torque at the headstock. I used them in the motor, so I'll use them in the intermediate and headstock...

Nuto 32 is just Mobil's brand of a decent ISO 32 hydraulic oil. £10 a litre from the bay if you want nuto 32, or if you look up smith and allan iso 32 slideway oil then you can get 5 litres for 15 quid. I doubt if there is any noticeable difference. Just ISO 32 hydraulic oil from your local...

Just checked the diagram, both upper and lower belts are 5'6" indicating an A66 belt, however if you look at the parts list document, the lower one is 4'6" (A54) So I will have to wait until I'm near the lathe before ordering. I think the parts list is correct as the standard lathe, single ended...

Hi G_O I did get chance to take off one aluminium cover, they are the 6208 bearings, it looks like mine have been replaced at least once, the ones used are only sealed once side, i.e. Z bearings, not ZZ or 2Z, see here for bearing notation explanations. See below for bearing details of the...

Looking at the diagram, it means taking off the aluminium end caps, slide the shaft out, there may be a grub screw in the pulley. This will expose the bearing which should be pushed out from behind or with a slide hammer. Not sure until I take a look. The reason I'm changing mine is mainly age...

Funny you should say that G_O, I was contemplating the same. Lathes.co.uk reckon they are "Timken taper roller-bearings or ball races" however if you look at the general arrangement below Then the headstock are a pair of 6208-ZZ (or you can use 2Z) and the intermediate shaft a pair of 6205-ZZ...

What a lovely machine! I love big old lumps like this - very jealous! In terms of oil, most engine oils will be fine, especially the older variety 20w50 etc. The iso 32 hydraulic oil you can get from most farming shops is a good cheap alternative especially if it sups a bit. Don't use some of...

Slightly off topic but related, we are just having all the wooden windows in the house replaced with galvanised powder coated steel double glazed windows. The old windows needed regular treating and there's no way I'm doing that in my dotage. The other major benefit is light, the frames are a...

Bearings changed in the motor and tested ready to receive the lathe body. A reminder of how it looked when I bought it how it looks now Mainly looks standard except the speed control knob next to the on/off switches and the bristol levers instead of the simple levers it would have had...

I nearly forgot about building this media jukebox, it has been no trouble whatsoever. It plays Internet radio, it can do Spotify, I mount our network drive so we can play all our ripped music playlists, you can mount USB so can stick your phone into it if you wish, I don't but its easy enough...