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Because it's been properly looked after, obviously. Did you actually read any of what I said?

Mignal, Here's at least one of your colleagues who disagrees with you: http://www.violins.on.ca/luthier/glue.html who writes: Which is exactly my experience with antique furniture. Regarding the tropical climate thing, I admit I have no first hand experience of that, I am repeating what I've...

Fair point; my first reaction was based on what would I feel if someone did that to MY tools, but relationships are more complex and two sided than first reactions admit....

Well yes, but hide glue does suffer more under certain conditions than some more modern glues not least because it is an organic product. Another example of this is from the days when english furniture and pianos were sent off to colonies in hot and humid places — they used to have huge...

When I see this with cascamite in chair joints I have always assumed that is due to the brittleness of the glue — many years of tiny movements gradually cracking it up, which is why you so often see it in chairs (and why some people advocate glueing chairs with PVA, which is slightly flexible)...

It's not nonsense, it's really common in antique furniture in centrally heated homes, I've seen it loads of times — the timber shrinks and the glue crumbles — so the joint comes apart, rather than the timber splitting. it happens in dovetailed boxes quite a lot, and with marquetry. In fact if...

I like the trick with the marbles, that's a new one to me. If you say you've done this with pieces that size then I guess it can be done, though I'm surprised that just running a bead down the centre of a piece 1" thick by 3" wide will guarantee that clamp pressure will spread the glue right to...

Maybe I do, there's always more to learn! The OP was having a lot of trouble with it, he wasn't finding it easy at all. So how would you advise him to proceed? What is he doing wrong and what advice can you give him to solve his problem? Clearly just applying the glue hot and putting...

Unless I'm misunderstanding, the legs are not 3"x1", the pieces are 3"x1" and the legs are 3"x3", hence the difficulty of squeezing the excess out from a 3" width (when the timber is too thick for any flexibility to help you) at the length of a table leg before the glue gels. This is quite a...

I don't, people do all sorts of strange things. Not everyone is well balanced or rational. +1. You need those things. Don't let her get away with it. They are yours and you don't have to let whoever is coming take them. I second the suggestion to give the CAB a ring and explain the situation.

Well there's always a way, though I've never heard of thick structural components being laminated up in the way you are talking about before the advent of resin glues. I think (correct me someone?) it is a technique that only really came about as timber became scarcer and more expensive and new...

If I have understood what you are trying to do correctly I would say that hot hide glue is probably not really suitable for this. It will gel too quickly, and once it has gelled you will not get it to squeeze out out without heat and a lot of pressure being applied, and it will be difficult to...

You will almost certainly need to use a specialist marine timber supplier. For a start your timber will presumably need to be still green enough to bend and/or steam well, and you will not find un-kilned mahogany at any normal timber merchant. You could try...

What is it you are making, what sort of environment will it be in, how much use will it get and by whom? Some finishes will look great but not stand up to much wear.... You might use a different finish for a table top or a cabinet etc etc....

Context?!

Thanks for these suggestions. Had look but Norfolk were a bit pricy and worktop express didn't have the thickness I wanted. However I found what I needed here: http://www.barncrest.co.uk/iroko-workto ... ktops.html

Hi, I need two full stave Iroko worktops at 720 x 4000. I've been looking for a while and found a couple this size at 40mm but the client wants something thinner ideally, about 1". Any suggestions of where to look? They need to be ready-mades as the budget is pretty tight. Thanks, Marcus

If it's for your workshop I recomment one of theses as they are designed for workshop use and burn sawdust as well as offcuts: great way to make use of the stuff. http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Steel-workshop-stove.html A bit more expensive than what you've been looking at...

You are right there, and it's a big minus point.... I always wear a mask and gloves when handling it.

Oh and cascamite doesn't creep like PVA can....