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Nice table. Re the fair - is ito n frequently? I looked on the Park's website but couldn't see it listed in the events. Thanks

Thanks all - sounds like this isn't going to be the way to go then. I'll invest in some scotch brite and elbow grease. Thanks again p.s. thanks for the warning re sand, silicosis doesn't sound good

Hi We want to freshen up the kitchen, but on a very small budget. The kitchen cabinet doors are timber and we'd like to paint them. However, they're got lots of fiddly edges etc, and I was wondering if blasting them would be the quickest and easist way of prepping them for paint. Has anyone...

Hi Can I please ask - what's the item bottom right (in Alex H's pic) for? Thanks

Thanks all for the replies. I haven't worked out how many I'd need (2 per slat - one at each end) but it's be something in the region of 40-50. As stated, I'm probably overdoing things (as usual). I was intending to bevel the edges, so they'd be glued on either edge, and on the face (top and...

Hi Thanks, but not quite. They're the right shape, but the shank needs to be about 20-25mm long. Much obliged to you though.

Hi all I'm currently making a TV stand with a flat face, and the back is going to be a semi-circle. I'm intending to clad the curve with narrow oak boards, 8mm thick. Gluing them on will probably be entirely sufficient, but being a bit belt-and-braces in my constructions, I'd prefer there to...

Apologies if there's already a thread on this - I looked, but couldn't see one. Anywho, it was a 30 min. program following the construction of a windsor chair. Did anyone else see this? At one point, the maker used what appeared to be a pull-saw, and I was wondering why? What advantage did it...

I like the tip re morticing before tapering - simple, but i bet it wouldn;t have occurred to me...

I made several picture frame clamps, following plans online, but tend most frequently to use a band-type. Got it from Screwfix for about a tenner, but that was a little while ago now. As previously stated, once it's under a bit of tension (i.e. enough for it to be held in the clamp, but whilst...

+1 for glueing a narrower strip on to a thick bit to form the rebate. That's what I did before getting a router, and often still do as I like to use contrasting timbers. Good luck with the project.

I bought a pry bar set from them a couple of years ago - they've been fine for occassional domestic use (as in non-professional, not whilst having a barney with the other half). Not particularly wood-worky though.

Those doors look great - good work. If they're slightly bowed I shouldn't worry - I bought original 30's doors in that pattern, and they're bowed all to hell. Yours are just very authentic to the period! ;-)

Agree that the Toolstation website could be better, but I called their helpline with a query (about the dimensions of a product). The guy I spoke to was very helpful, and called me back promptly with the info once he'd been down to the stockroom.

Thanks all, that dowel idea is ace!

This hovers between the "general" and "metailworking" categories, so apologies to mods if they think it's in the wrong place. Is there anywhere that sells a good selection of re-thread coil inserts (hope that description makes sense). I'm not 100% sure of the size I'm going from, and the size...

Thanks, will try and get up there and grab one.

Anyone tried the drillbit sharpener? The cynic in me makes me doubt, but at £4 it may be worth a punt.

I don't know about Makitas, but I looked in to repairing a Black and Decker corded drill. As previously stated, the only bits worth replacing were the brushes. Any other motor component cost more than a brand new replacement drill of the same type. Crazy.

Hiya Some help from you good people, please. We have an extractor fan in the bathroom, and a vent tile has been fitted in the roof above. However, the two aren't connected. Can anyone tell me what the fittings are called, that would fix on to the tile, to take the trunking? It'd be a...