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Any pictures?

Hi Mick. the locks are ERA Ones, Bought as a kit from Marches Ironmongery, i then changed the gearbox on their lock kit to use the vectis gearbox, so it uses the more secure 5lever lock, not a euro cylinder. Hi John, The bottom rail in the door was around 10" tall, its just the boarding you...

Iwould router out along a straight guide, the thickness of the crack, the full length of the muntin, square the ends with a chisel then plane a replacement piece of timber to a tight fit, and glue in. Remove proud material with plane,/scraper and sand/finish. Get some sikkens kodrin, or teknos...

tape the packers together to save balancing them ontop f each other. use a trip to cover the gap?

could you not clamp in both directions to stop slipping?

Just stick them in, either on double sided gazing tape, or a small bead of sealant adhesive.. silicone doesnt adhere well to bare wood. Dont just use a blob of selant as you see it though the glass from the otherside and it looks terrible. Best bet is glazing tape though

Wanted to come to this, but with too many fairweather jobs stacking up and it being a nice day...:(

As above, or have a long enough fence so the points of the wood are touching throughout the whole cut. If your planing after it, draw a line down and freehand?

Not sure if i will be around on saturday, but this sounds like a good place to be if i am! try and show some of you old timers up :D (doubtfull!)

Cascamite should be dry withing a few hours if its 15 degrees+ and dry. doesnt take long for the left over in a pot to set solid. Storage, i can only guess at storing them with their own weight working with the way youve bent them, to try and counteract the memory of the wood?

There are two ways Sit the bookcase the the furthest most point into the room on the chimney, then use a architrave type moulding that bridges the gap and caulk/scribe a fillet on the back edge that sits against the wall that s out. Or sit the bookcase back, and have just scribe in one...

0.3mm is a teeny amount dust could make that difference. But if all else is good then it may be. I usually guage the mortice chisel with vernies then machine the tenon .3 smaller off the machine for a sash, bit more clearance for doors. I would, as advised above, check each piece of timber for...

Love that!

An easy way to glue up the bevelled tops is to either glue two doors together, out of long stiles, upside down to each other, as the bevels oppose (there is less squaring up required also!) or a more wasteful method is to extend the stiles longer and have a rail the correct width to clamp on...

never done bigger than 5/8" unless the moulding dictates a different size (irrelevant) the main reason is the mortice is usually offset, and a bit one could leave too little on the edge of the wood. strength at that size and above comes from the fit of the joint

Did i see there is a mains plug adapter also? so you can use the battery tooll with a lead? cant find any info on it though

Haha well, the vicar is female and i wont make any comments about drivers of that kind... There were 8 of reserved ones, 2 vicar!

Haha thanks Mark, got the handles fitted today! Oh and the doors too. Managed to find a nice little centre keep for the bolts on both doors, that works well and is easy clean! Edited: A short video showing the locking mechanism. http://youtu.be/H2jN_kbguXg

haha yup! Probably would be today.

Loving that Nathan, Im with Bob, Knock me one up too!? Haha