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My felder will block up like that, its when using timbers with a smooth grain, the only way to solve is to have serious extraction, if i leave other vents open itll clog up and my extractor is pretty hefty, so your not doing anything wrong. Either that or a spiral type cutter so the chips arent...

haha, is that like a mini unimog?

do you use the water or solvent bourne products? im going to make a few boxes and he's bringing some paint out next week to have a play with through my pump FOC.... :))

Well In ALan, Is that morrells Paint? I had the technical guy for our area call in today after i made an inquiry about their paints, Really helpful and knowledgeable guy, felt really impressed considering i haven't even bought anything yet!

some of my Racing car friends have bolts made in titanium to replace prone to failure items. I think they sometimes use this place.. http://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium/titani ... l?cat=1028

id just lay some blocks (walls not wood) down on a mortar bed to make the step up then tile/board ontop. Can tie it into the wall etc if you wanted with some fixings.

The machine from back of cast top to face of the sliding table is 795mm however the height adjustment switch sticks out a further 15mm from this, and at the back the cable bulkhead connectors stick out further than this dimension. They are removable though im sure. Obviously the tilt handwheel...

I have a 2003 f700z i could measure for you? they do differ from year to year slightly bear in mind....

A box to sit in the apex of an orangery, to hold up a clock tower above, mechanism to be an old style cast clock frame... Very interesting job! The timber frame spans between the steel purlins and everything else sits off that. Now having doubts about the size of the clock tower after seeing...

usually fix through the drawer and into the frame of the drawer front. make the front of the drawer box big enough to cover the panel area of the front? ive seen them stuck on with VHB tape and last before aswell, but they need to be a sealed surface.

That looks great! :) I Bought some trestles from Macc that would have worked very well for you. there the best trestles ive ever worked from as a bench, and they double up as liftable scaffolding/platforms. There bloody expensive, but id buy another set tomorrow if i needed them...

If its sunny :D Or just a strong halogen light... http://www.instructables.com/id/sunligh ... materials/

If your struggling, you havent got a big enough wrecking bar.... Makes life so much easier. (hammer)

That is fantastic work!

I tried cutting solutions, and really couldnt be happier. Payment after delivery too.... Proper business.

i spoke to the guy for a while at the NEC, He was really helpful, im sure they would demo for you, or point you in the direction of someone that has one!

The Gibbs sandtech machines are quite interesting, it uses a weird rubber/plastic wheel that almost closes the edge of the mdf off with friction, you could paint straight on it, then de-nib, but i think there quite a fussy machine, and need a lot of setting up to get the speeds right. I just...

Id go with stainless pins through a brad nailer, ive found stainless screws tend to snap with movement on oak boarding Unless you go bit witht hem 5mm+. Pins can bend alot easier. Put them in in a diamond pattern, angling the two outside ones outwards, and the middle one straight in. These are...

What are you finishing? Id probably try a hardwax oil, Less smell and number of applications?

Yeha The rails were a smidge over 25mm, and the boards 16mm each side. the outside side of the frame was stuck in with a sealant, ms polymer, (masked all edges before hand), and the inside pinned in place. The Butyl holds the glass on the outside, with a capping bead seal, again masked and...