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Have you tried brasso? i believe it to be just as good

also does it have the thicknessor hood, as mine doesnt had to make my own hood, only the planer bridge guard came with it.

i have a spare baos, the only gripe i had with mine was the rear fence was slightly out from the blades, so to level up,had to clamp one side then wind other side up and then clamp. make sure it has the blade setting jig. i now have a felder, as running 2.1m+ lengths of hardwood frame over the...

Make sure the table gap is bigenough for the under one. I have a thin screw on fence that the board runs along past the cutter to stop it dipping in, as the fence has to be the width of the cutter apart. On smaller panels mould the ends/ lengths before ripping down

MY crosscut would burn a little on that along grain cut, and it sounds like you have a very fine blade in which wont help. For along grain thr the more agressive blade that probably came with the saw. Plus one for blade direction, does look to be the case.

It can also be that the outer spur edge rubs the wood a very tiny bit as the cutting edge has worn/ been sharpened down. Do a shallow mortice and see where the burn in the wood is.

You will have to be very very careful if you heat it with the gas axe as parts distort easily. My brother had a lathe from a school where the chuck had never been off, after weeks of trying and re submersing in all sorts of fluids... We heated it and let it cool to crack the seal, still...

looks great! The floor plug doesnt look wonky atall.... :) what method do you used to clamp the boards together?

we bought a gun cleaning kit and havent regretted it, although probably not necessary. rifle brushes of various sizes and a oiler with a very fine nozzle to keep the moving parts crisp.

+1 for the 2-1 pva, tried this today, and the first spray coat after a very quick application of pva and a light rub down, produced a very good finish.

dab here buffers every five minutes, Very very old sony radio in the workshop is much better. Mind you, we cant even get broadband here. or a landline phone that you can hear people down.....

pull the joints away aswell as there will probably be biscuits in the join.

buy a tenoner, even travel if you cant find one local.. you wont regret the accuracy it brings to tennons, letalone the handiness of fitting scribe cutters. make sure it has euro blocks so youdont have to switch between blocks to go from scribes to rebate...

You could try a reamer in the appropriate size?

the spindle version of the 63 strip isnt deep enough to do a 60mm rebate..... so no good for double glazed traditional windows. Works on SP ones though, Advantage with the router cutter is that the bearing guides the depth easily, spindle requires setup/test everytime, however also means you...

i also used to use alot of whitehill moulding cutters. However, now building a collection of euro cutters, and if there is a job needs cutters i will get a set made and price it in. the same as anywhere else that would price for the job would have to do..... so why not? both cutters cut if...

Imo plastic coating odour is a lot worse than danish oil. How are you applying the PC? And finishing?

Three on everything before installing, then three more when in place.

Decent forstner bit? Will require some forward pressure but ive cut bigger holes by hand with one. Flat bit will do it also and is probably the easiest option.

My only concern with abranet is that it seems to dull alot quicker than full discs on h/w