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just put a allen key in the grub screw then undo the nut, and tighten the grub screw. hold the allen key in position while retightening the nut. doesnt matter if you gotoomuch just unndo and re-attempt.

im going to narrow down an old map drawer chest (1200w x 900d) to run on bb runners, and have all the tooling in there, most used bits at the top/ comfy level, spares etc at the bottom. the drawers will keep the dust out, and moulding profiles can be laid out to easily identify. currently have...

I have the felder 531, and am very impressed with it, i changed from a mint wadkin baos, similar to the mb in functionality. you may have to flip the tables up every time to switch over, but you can easily see feeding material through the thicknesser. the blades are a bit dearer than...

I got some fine grit pads from these guys http://www.abtec4abrasives.com/150mm6-6 ... -507-p.asp They do all sorts of sizes/hole numbers, aswell as different media if you have very hard wood that dulls discs.

Try a stain blocking primer , Johnstones ultra primer plus

Very impressive right the way through to the mill. Aparantley they are pulled out by OXES though. nice one dm.

My suggestion would have been to groove the edge of the ply out get the faces nice and flush then glue a stip of wood into the groove.

haha Doug I like that!

I thought that may be the reason, i guess its my fault for not explaining what i meant, by where it was from i meant did you source/ fell the timber yourself, or buy it from a dealer/merchant. But i can see how youd think i was trolling as asking where '"english oak" was from is a very face...

Can i ask Why my Post was deleted from this thread, for future reference incase i said/did something wrong. showing genuine interest on the item for sale and asking a question. i had to pm the seller or i wouldnt have got a responce. Mod edit:- Don't know for certain, was your post the one...

I have been using the Liberon Wax for over a month or so, definately noticed a difference in application times ove the old wax, probably waxed the planer/thicknessor 3 times, and the spindle, but everything else has had just the one coat and still slick when pushing wood over. I just applied it...

the best time for felling is between december and february, Sappy wood is harder to dry and requires more conditioning/is more likely to case harden. i think oak is quite good for being kilned straight away, but if it was left to air dry first i think it means avoiding alot of the conditioning...

whats the bracket for? hilti gun?

We had a sheet of 50mm mdf at my old place of work.... Jeez it was a killer.

Could try some vhb tape, if the wood is sealed. Or i would try contact adhesive.

pallet stretch is your friend!!

bevels or 'weathering' is classed as a surface of 9 degrees or more, ive seen plenty of old windows that havent rotted with a flat under the casement, and plenty that have with bevels..... it depends on the wood and how well there sealed i think.

i use brads from a pin gun on the skew. pin at the side of the boards at 45 degrees out, never had a problem with the boards pulling away. especially 14mm boards. opaque primer bestoff ringing up the campany who manufacture the topcoat to get a sugestion, or a finishings company, i use abbots...

i could but not exactly around the corner from you. How many windows are you needing? Edit: Here is Some i made earlier These were made from sapele with a 7mm radius ovalo mould to the sashes, spiral balance units from mighton and planitherm glass units (24mm) with superspacer and duplex...

i really like the carbon fibre/walnut table. great little piece!