Search results

Wasn't it John Ruskin of Arts and Crafts fame who said something like - If you spend extra on the bees knees, the extra is soon forgotten, but if you save a little on a cheapo, you will remember it's cost exactly, every time you have to use it....

I got mine from Leichtung Workshops in the US. Not exactly the same, as the wheels cope with a greater range of thickness, and the same wheel can be set free, or anti kickback in either direction, (with no tools)

If you are ripping with a short fence (as one is supposed to do) then the work is guided both by the fence and also the riving knife. As the plate for a 1.7mm kerf blade is likely to be somewhere around 1 or 1,2 mm, a knife of ~ this thickness does not seem man enogh to control the passage of...

I got mine (C12) just after the brushles motor came out; it reminded me of the difference between a cheap and a professional camera. It is as concentric as a good mains drill and has even less play in the bearings. The quick change fittings have none of the wobble of the original hex chuck...

Starting torque not too much of a problem, motor is 4 pole externally mounted driving a ducted fan via V belt. My guess is around 1.5 to 2 kW.

I'm replacing a 3 phase motor with single phase, and the origninal has lost it's (info) plate. No 3 Ph here, so I can't actually measure. I have some idea of the max current in each phase from the 3Ph motor's starter overload setting. If I estimate power from P=root3*Vline*Iline*cos(theta)...

Or if you want a flush look, cut yourself some veneer and use mdf for the panels?

I do the same, but with a Wealden surface trim bit that has radiused corners, which are less likely to leave a surface mark (?). I rigged up a purpose made base for this job about 250mm long, reinforced with some thick ali angle (without router could flex by a few thou). There's a knob big...

I do this with my Mafell and the 48t Festool blade, I think you can with the Festool too. On the guide rail, set cut to about 3mm, and cut from the far side back towards yourself - this climb cut scores the top surface. don't go over about 3-4mm for safety reasons. Then plunge to full depth and...

You can make a passable ebony look on crown cut pine with a common 'ebony' wood dye, covered by a thinned coat of 'ebony' pigment stain to reduce the otherwise exagerated contrast (not obliterate it). Our office cupboards/ shelving etc are thus finished, topped off by a wipe of varnish and steel...

Why not use an 8000 or 10,000 grit waterstone to finish, as these are quite wear resistant - and you've got diamond to flatten them if needed? Hydrophobes could use the ruby/ceramic 10,000 grit (or whatever it is) that does not wear, only needs ocasional dressing with diamond to keep fast cutting?

The important thing about vacuum cleaner style extractors is the motor. Or more specifically how it is cooled. Normal domestic vacs have motors cooled by the air they are sucking through the (fairly short) pipe. Tool extractor vacs generall have a longer pipe, maybe 3M, which may be almost...

Very nice! But the Clifton will do best if tuned. Alas it is not as well made as the LN which does work quite well straight out of the box, as the Yanks say.

Thanks for the info. The Rutland's jobbie looks identical to the one I saw in the book, didn't remember it from their catalogue, thanks. Alas, didn't expect it to be quite that price! (and this a copy, too)

(I've got a 5300,152" blades) The blades Dragon made for me were on the generous size lengthwise, so I often have to wind up the tension screw with the pointer well off the top of the scale. This can't cause a problem to the saw. The 5300 will just about fully tension a carbon steel 32mm blade...

Would do very well! I'm old enough to remember when ironmongers stocked rivets (wonderful dark places; we had one, 4/fork (c)'andles style, as big as a department store when I was small) . Where do you get yours nowadays? For this job I guess drill, shallow csk, and stub of ms rod (nail) would...

Saw pictures of these in a book- funtionally similar to the rather expensive Bessey, but retained on the board to be edged by 2 rubber covered 'snail' cams. (bit like the joist grippers of the Record flooboard cramp). Looked a bit simpler to make than the Bessey (cheaper?), wondered who supplies...

Looks more complicated than adding 2 mild steel slips to the back of the cap iron! Superglue works well for a trial. To avoid distortion through uneven heating forget brazing, drill tap and setscrew. Modifying the Y lever can reduce adjustment sensitivity by about half. If the cap iron is...

A thankyou for Axminster too! Their technical services very understanding and unphased. Volunteered to check how to place order with Jet, and call me back. He did, and it's eighteen pounds odd including the postage. A real result. Thankyou Jet, and thankyou Axminster.

If you can't get a setting gauge to push the blades down against the springs (must be at TDC of the cutting arc), a piece of plate glass will do the job, BUT....this setting mode is: 1/ only really suitable for planers with an adjustable outfeed table, as the setting proceedure puts blades...