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Well, maybe Tony, but I have tightened the lever cap retaining bolt (after setting lever cap), to point that lever cap won't undo, as mentioned above. Maybe the cam profile of the lever doesn't permit very secure locking down - will have a lokk at this tomorrow. Regarding continuous work...

I have noticed that the iron tends to shift a bit during long sessions on the shooting board, when the work is off blade centre. Easy to forget to check! The actual adjustment seems more easily done with a screwdriver just behind the mouth, there's little leeway at the rear of the body. However...

Horses for courses to some extent, but I like my Cliftons which have a bit more weight than the LN, which I also bought as Clifton don't do a 50 deg (or more!) frog. Planes for fine work have LN No. 8 blade ground down to 2 3/8" because it's 4.8mm thick. The cap iron needs a simple mod, covered...

Bought just before the accountants took over the engineering department. In the old days castings were left to age so they did not distort on machining. Tying up stock in heaps, usually outdoors, cost money and was done away with. The technical solution of heat cycling used today also costs, and...

I got a pair from Leichtung Workshop in the US (phoned for mail order), as these had got the gong in a Fine WW test. The key point was ability to handle up to about 3" with little or no adjsuting. They work quite well, and even keep sheet stock tight against the (extra long for this) fence...

I have a 12" M&W and that says the 18" Groz from Axminster is OK. Much better price than an eng. industrial supplies company. According to Groz website they mfr. to the usual BS. Some years back I bought an Ulmia 750mm Panel, for marking out. Very nice, all brass bound rosewood, which...

By "lateral setting" I mean the setting of the lateral adjusting lever, (not the position of the plane over the edge you're planing.) This can "creep" in use and take you unawares. You might re read this section my post above with this in mind. If a blade has a crown of (say) 4 thou , and you...

I have one or two LV planes, including the new rebate. They are all substantial, accurately made, and so work excellently. Personally I do not rate Norris' adjsuter design. It looks engineering-solution-elegant, but makes it impossible to adjust depth of cut without upsetting the lateral...

That's interesting! Srewfix may be bigger, but the prices haven't 'arf gorn up since it was sold off. Guess I'll try a batch of the cramps, then. I got some early Blackspur ali sash cramps at a local (non chain) diy place for between 5 and 7 quid, proved excellent, like the "real" US originals...

I've got one of their orange 4" Makita-copy belt sanders, and a 7" polisher, both about 2 yrs old and going fine, pleasantly surprised! Carmps could be very poorly cast, all sand, distortion, and blow holes, but sounds as if they're acceptable, thanks for your thoughts.

Paying for cramps seems somehow less satisfactory than other tools! However I've had mixed results from bargain purchases. Silverline F cramps are (or mine were) quite good and excellent value at about 3.50 each in a Toolsation sale; I bought 20. Several of the Ax Bessey clones had twisted bars...

You mention trouble with the lateral position - is this shifting in use? One of my Clifton frogs required a bit of flattening as did the blade face that meets the frog. When rectified the lateral adjustment was much stiffer with a similar lever cap setting, and it stopped drifting in use. Flat...

Have used steel, coolblock (sort of graphited tufnol) and **** oil soaked maple. Steel lasted longest but softer blocks easier to reshape after wear. Lignum should last well as used for underwater (propellor) shaft bearings in ships. Current saw has guides as illustrated, mine can be set to ***...

The books were allocated on a first come first served basis, and the lucky folk have now confirmed what they want. Should any "sale" fall through, I'll put the book back on the forum. Thanks for your interest. regards, Ivan

If you have a lot to do, the Festool system looks attractive but expensive. However you don't have to buy a Festool router. You don't need to buy the expensive System32 kit in a systainer, either.The usual guide rail comes drilled at 32mm intervals, there's a pair "fences" and stops to enable...

I go for 2 pack epoxy, pretty bomb proof stuff. I get mine (Johnstones) from their trade Decorator Centre - now called Leyland D. C. as Leyland bought out Johnstones a few years ago. They retained the Johnstones name for the top ranges. You don't need a trade acct. A warm, pale grey is quite...

First, apologies, have been away from pc for a bit. I will reply to every PM ASAP.

On my 310 they sit either side of the rather car bonnet like "bolt" that the locking handle traps. They have a domed head - a hex bolt with a dome machined on top of the head. They support and align the tables on the operator side, opposite the lifting hinge.There are usually some characters on...

Mine was supplied with the table locking handles adjusted to lock sloping forward at about 45 deg. This is a bad idea. The tables are easier to adjust and examine if the coupling piece with the lifting handle is removed. Remember that the l/h table is now free to fall down if you raise it up...

Likewise, I use one of those "baby" powerfeeders to enable climb cutting on the router table. In theory, it could also be used with the fence at the back so that the routing operation was also "widthing". That's in theory: but the router is rather underpowered compared to a thicknesser (or a...