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It's hard to be sure when under continual assualt by kneebiters, but my No 6 also maintains a very slight hollow in the same piece. Will bear this in mind over coming days, and keep using longer planes than usual, and smoothers, with something more dense. The No6 is pretty flat end to end (75%...

Mine came from Axminster, featured in "Top Tools" flyer as "New"

I have a 310, for 2 yrs, excellent value. the new fence is a bit flatter than the old but not perfect. I think it was Waka who posted the necessary mod. The arrangement looks a bit heath robinson but it is very rigid. You do need to check for 90 deg after you move the fence as botom of fence...

I think that's why you need a 4' (minimum) try plane like the bloke in the backgroung of the archive film I mentioned, who was planing something about 8' long. With stop shavings you can always reliably produce something up to about 2x the plane length with a slight hollow about as thick as thin...

David, in case you're still looking for an experimenter...just got round to it. Put a piece of softwood over the planer, which gives me a hollow of about 3-4 thou over a 3' or so. Sawed off a piece the same length as the No.8 (stuff looked pretty flat under st. edge) and took off 25 good...

It's not only beginners who can produce a convex edge! I find it quite hard to start a cut "correctly" with shorter planes, even a 5. You haven't got that much toe to set the level for the first few cms of the cut Perhaps it's time to think a bit more about Alan Peters technique - use a No 7...

To avoid crushing round the nail site you want a nailer with what the americans call a no-mar nose. Then you get a small rubber dooberry on the nose that buffers recoil. Cheap nail guns probably omit this, or if supplied, will not be aailable as a spare (they're all too easy to loose)

Nicely made as ever, more reasonably priced than Titemark, and fits all 8mm or 5/16 shaft gauges. but..... Made in a way that when correctly mounted (bevel to bevel) you cannot mark a mortice of much under 10 mm (3/8"?). LV are in company, too; I did not buy the Titemark version which is even...

I don't think flexing is important either; I just put it in because someone raised it on another thread. It took less than a couple of minutes to put a clock gauge on my No8, and see that it did give as described. The downward pressure I used was about what you'd use on the tote at the end of a...

One blade is probably enough for treewood, Nigel Voysey (Machining Wood) suggests a rip for everything as being most efficient. You might want another for dimension sawing, ply, veneered board, etc that you intend to use straight from the saw. I store mine (all one dia.) vertically in an open...

Here's the result of some late night reading about the relative merit of dowel and biscuit joints in chipboard and mdf carcasses. Source websites for research papers below. Max strength dowel spacing ~ 96mm Max strength biscuit spacing~150mm (edit) 1st biscuit centre 50mm from edge In general...

Most helpful advice I ever found was in an early FW mag. Make a handle for the point (far end) of the file, and do it thus: Cut yourself a matchbox sized slip of wood, but a bit thinner. Drill a hole in the middle of the striking surface (if it was a matchbox) small enough to hold the point of...

I got my first, a Freud 100 some years ago, and all jointers then available needed a setting block except the very expensive Lamello.

There was some mention of this in a related thread on flattening plane soles, where someone mentioned that a plane will flatten wood only until toe, cutting edge, and heel are just touching. In short, producing a shallow curve through these three points. This is sometimes shown as a diagram in...

The Trend looks similar to the early Freud machines. This type (and other low cost jointers) does not have a finely made fence that automatically remains parallel to the blade as it is adjusted. However, provided the blade is parallel to the case, many joints can be registered off the base...

Bob Wearing always reccomended* knocking up a little jig to hold the boards like Philly's cheapo cramps or Crossman's plane. Two flat boards joined at 90 deg, like a corner of a drawer (chance to do another d/t) with a triangular brace at the back. Vice, quick action cramp, etc hold everything...

Steve, if you spot this coming round again, here's a few more "facts", I came across yesterday. According to Eric Stephenson, who seems to be a bit of a sawdoctor guru, and author of the HSE reccomended Spindle Moulder Handbook, HSS spindle cutterhead knives can be ground between 35 and 60 deg...

Lots of light helps too; the eye shuts down it's aperture and increases the depth of focus*. And occupational varifocals which work over a range of about 10" to 4' are a real boon in the workshop. The reduced range over normal varifocals (from reading to horizon) makes it possible to get a good...

Have been keeping half an eye on this subject especially as we have relations in USA. I have the impression from reading that the inserts bolt onto a machined bed such that their flat top is not at a tangent to the block; this determines the clearance (as I understand it). Not very interested if...

Looking good! But doesn't look like four feet to me?