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I don't understand? When I look at that bridle joint, I see a box/finger joint And a dovetail joint is just a box/finger joint without the angled cuts?

I know I know you disagree with this, but I still think push sticks give you less control. Much less control than with your hands, both in terms of grip and applied force. And yes - I do use two push sticks on every cut! as I would rather have less control of the work piece and damaged that...

I love my japanese saws (3 piece set from Rutlands) My only issue is with the rip side of the Ryoba saw. I find it very difficult to use. Unless I get it at the exact right angle (about 45deg) there is a lot of vibration and jumping rather than cutting. I don't have a western rip saw, so...

I assume you're joking .. :D But my comment was based on me actually visiting the store and looking at the timber in person.

The AC216TS lacks the table extensions that the previous model had. 570 mm x 675 mm (including the extension) is still rather small. A lot smaller than my job site saw, 640x940 (which has extending sides). It's the only thing that is putting me off buying it myself, as I don't want to...

Just had a look through all my F-Clamps (that are longer than the Festool ones) and the bar is thickner than 20mm :(

I've never seen one with a removable head? .. are you thinking of quick clamps?

Has anyone come across an F-Clamp with a removable head, so I can use it with an MFT style table top? - I already have the Festool type clamps (lever and f style) but am looking for something with more depth (longer) - It needs to be an F-Clamp and not a quick clamp as the quick clamps don't...

I subscribe to hundreds or channels, and I really don't think I've seen a video I have been happy with. Many of the "Table Saw Safety" videos don't even have a splitter!!! you just have to watch a million of them, and take the best bits from each of them. If anything doesn't make seense, don't...

I'm not sure what type of file it is. It is just one of the basic metal file sets of 3, half round, flat and round.

Ah right. I've only ever filed it the first time I got it. I thought you could just use a diamond plate when it needs touching up from scratch after that(every 3rd/4th refresh)

Where I am, my local timber merchant supplies the stuff you're refering to as white wood pine. Large growth rings, very soft, and PLENTY of knots. Yet my local Ridgeons has really nice pine. Much tighter growth rings, and only a few knots. But is ridiculously expensive...

Well if it works, that's all that matters :)

Really? I would have thought a spanner would be far too soft.

I've watched many video tutorials on this and there seems to be conflicting advice. Some say apply moderate pressure, and some say only use the weight of the burnisher itself? what do you do? Personally, I'm still really bad at sharpening a scraper, and only get good results maybe 1/3 attempts...

I can understand why they might do that on ebay or Amazon. But it's a terrible idea for a website as that customer is unlikely to come back

I wonder if you could drill a hole, tap it, and then insert a bolt? You could need to clamp out the gap first though. Would be a quick and easy fix if it worked?

Out of interest, how much did you pay for it? I just picked up a new vice from workshopheaven https://www.workshopheaven.com/york-woo ... vr802.html £90, although not quick release (I didn't want it really). I know people say that the old Record vices are better quality, but for £90, and...

Very nice! Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I can print to a resolution of 0.1mm in terms of layer height. Line width is around 0.4mm As for printing very fine gears, I'm not sure if it would be strong enough, at least with PLA.