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ah yes - you never want to use a scraper held flat like that on the side/rim of a bowl (only the bottom where there is more meat). You want to either a) hold it at about 45 degrees to perform a shear cut, or b) use a negative rake scraper. Check out Brian Havens on youtube. He lots of useful...

Whilst I agree that the Axminster stuff is getting really flaky these days. I have bought a few items recently that were sent back as they weren't fit for purpose. I think they're going down the route of little to no quality control, and hoping they turn out good on average. Is it fair to judge...

Ignoring the fact that that is a huge amount to be taking off... In regard to the small chips, I get the same thing with my Triton. Never really figured it out. I think it has something to do with chip extraction. Assuming you are using chip extraciton and it is working to some degree, you...

I had better luck with tinted danish oils rather than stains. I used : https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pr ... danish-oil and then several layers of : https://www.liberon.co.uk/product/finishing-oil/ (it's quite hard wearing) ...I think I may have also used a thinned down sanding...

Yes - it really was quite easy. I think I'll try tape instead of paper next time though. One less thing to have to hold in place properly! If it was a saw I had picked up from a builders merchent, I would agree.

Wealden bits are definately better than the Trend bits you'll find in that kit. But unless you're using them day in day out, they'll suffice for the average user. Stay clear of the cheap rubbish on ebay, they're dangerous. Then just add to your collection by buying Wealden bits as needed. Sent...

Common advice is to not buy a starter set. I always disagree with that, in my opinion a starter set is really useful and I HAVE used almost all the bits in mine. They're not hugely expensive, and they'll be there when you need them. I'd go with somthing like this , and then buy individual...

Ah - thanks for that - will have a look

I wonder why they would put such a large set on it in the first place? I can understand that it needs some set (perhaps a bit more than the averge woodworker would want), as customers would complain it binds otherwise. But having as much set as it did really made it horrible to use. It's a...

I just squished them in my metal vice. I had to use Aluminium angle iron as vice jaws though as the jaws on the vice have a fairly rough grid pattern.

Boom. New saw right, Veritas left. (I used the vice/paper method) Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

This is about as much as I wanted to spend, and if it's a simple fix, I'd rather just do it. Got to learn this stuff at some point, right? And given that there are zero specifications for the saw other than it's length and TPI, I don't think I really have a right to complain. I'll at least get...

It's 13tpi (as mentioned in the first post) As it's brand new and I have zero experience in filing teeth, I would rather not attempt filing them. Going to try the vice thing first. Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I have a metal vice but its only 4" wide, so would need to do it in stages. Can I not just sandwich the blade between some aluminium bar and clamp it with a series of f-clamps? Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Here it is in hard wood. Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Slightly disappointed with my new hand saw, the kerf is huge :( its quite hard to start and leaves a really messy line. Left is Veritas 14 tpi cross cut Right is new Lynx 13tpi rip cut Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info Sideways. Here is the latest plan. The top will now use 4080 extrusion which will sit on top of 4 leveling bolts (the MDF resting on the bolts). Once I have it where I want it, I will then screw the extrusion to the base legs using 4 screws per corner. This should now mean...

If you have a flush vice and a long piece, arn't you unnecessarily clamping surfaces of the workpiece to your bench that could potentially get marked? Where as a vice that sticks out a bit and with leather faces and a dog further down the bench to support the work piece reduces this? I can see...

Will you be reporting them Bob? I know that this is not the right time to be investigating this kind of thing, but I really hope that after all this is over, people who took adavtange of the situation get some kind of punishment.

Im wondering now if I should just replace the top wooden rails in my original plan for 8040, and not have the 4040 extrusion on the top piece. Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk