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1 3/4" Hock blade is sold. Ed

Tite-Mark gauge is sold. Ed

I've had another edit of things I don't use often enough to justify keeping them, so they are on offer to you lucky people; All prices include Royal mail delivery to UK addresses, payment by Paypal only. First PM to me in each case gets the item. Veritas Bullnose plane £80 (current retail...

Some great tips here - thanks guys. (apologies for not responding but I've been flat out doing late nighters on my latest project which handed over successfully today) Cheers, Ed

Thanks guys - I should have been a bit clearer perhaps. I'm OK with the resawing part having done that a fair bit, it was more the process of applying the veneer, what thickness, tips on joints, clamping and so on. Ed

I am planning to embark on a project using bandsawn veneers shortly. Not something I ever tried before as I hadn't got the kit, but with my super bandsaw it should now be a doddle. Anyone have any tips... Thanks in anticipation, Ed

Not quite sure what the personal danger is here - I only have 3 or 4mm of the blade sticking out and its a very controlled movement, with a roll of the wrist at the start and finish so you can see the cutting edge. Ed

Just noticed this quote on Joel Moskowicz's blog; How to use marking and mortise gauges in the work shop: Of all the layout tools traditional pin gauges are the most misunderstood. You don't need to play with the pin, and I'll show how to us a gauge so that you get a clear clean line in any...

I'd challenge wether you can make a knife edge to the same standards as a Swann Morton scalpel blade. I accept that you can question the fitness for purpose of one for this application, which may be what you mean. Ed

I only pull towards me, so the blade digging in is not an issue. I haven't noticed any accuracy issues but maybe I'm not working to the accuracy levels of some of the commentors on this thread. A Swann-Morton 10a scalpel blade is 0.4mm thick, so if you set the dimension you wanted to the side...

I agree - I had the large LN shoulder plane for years and found so few occasions where I could comfortably use it that I sold it in the end. Ed

Roger Looks excellent. Mind you, you've caused me some trouble as my wife was walking past as I looked at the thread...another one on the list. Cheers, Ed

Ditto, I sold my large and small LN shoulder planes and substituted a Veritas medium. Its a far more manageable size for what I do. Ed

Maybe scalpel blades are only for the sharp eyed, thrusting young woodworkers with a delicate touch, but I manage to use them without snapping the blades when marking lines that I can see perfectly well. In my view the idea of a ready made disposable edge for this type of tool is more...

I have the 5300 and although not tested to extremes, I find it excellent. Its well built and accurate - I assume the 4300 is of the same build quality. Having struggled with a Basato 3 for years this is like a breath of fresh air. Ed

You could consider my solution, which is a 10a scalpel blade; Although the blade is double bevel, its so thin that the accuracy is not really affected. You just need a way of clamping the blade. This solution means the cutting edge is razor sharp and when it becomes blunt you just chuck it...

I was gonna say flapjack, but you're probably nearer! Ed

I've been meaning to make a ZCI for my Kity 419 for years, but never got round to it. Partly for the reason stated, that there is so little material to the left of the blade I can't quite see it working; A close up pic of Robs solution would be helpful. Ed

Another happy DeWalt 733 owner. Before I had a surface planer I used a combination of good board selection, a bit of hand work and some judicious flipping of boards through the thicknesser to get flat stock. Its not quick but you get there in the end. Ed

Just imagine, if you had one of those rapid prototyping resin/laser machines connected to Sketchup it'd be done by now. :D Ed