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You don't say what machine, so I think your statement is a massive generalisation. I have the AP-5300 and its an excellent machine - I can't comment on others in the range as I have no knowledge of them. Ed

Yes, plus the long length means you can stir the paint with them as well without getting it on your fingers. Ed

Although its the basis on which I bought mine about 6 years ago, I now don't think the Tormek is the solution to the whole spectrum of sharpening requirements. I could do what I use mine for with a £50 grinder and a Norton 3X stone. I have never achieved an edge as good as with hand honing...

My PSA lapping film has arrived from Matthew, so I'll start experimenting with it over the next few weeks. Ed

Very tidy - nice one. Ed

:lol: These are not just screws, these are M&S screws... ...hand carved from phosphor bronze, coated in free-range beeswax from bees that agreed to contribute and installed with a screwdriver once owned by Chippendale himself. Or maybe pozidrive screws put in with an impact driver. I won't...

Nothing wrong with screws...don't be a snob! Ed

No need really, its surprising how stiff the finger joint is. I did the first one I showed as an experiment and it stood the test of time, so this one was done with the same method. Ed

Looking forward to seeing the installed job Jonny Ed

And theres more... On this stool I reinforced the box joint with screws and went with a contrasting maple plug. Handcut again on this one. Ed

Only one known cure for that. Let me know once you're bored of it and I'll make you an offer. Ed

Hence my suggestion of using a router table and keeping either end of the workpiece square so there is a reference surface to run against the fence... Ed

Another option is to use a roundover bit in a router table, but leaving a bit square at either end of the piece so there is something to ride against the fence. The ends can then be chopped off afterwards. Ed

What about this; http://www.roger-bullivant.co.uk/produc ... atory.html click on the .pdf. Ignoring the fact that it is advertised as a conservatory base, it could be the very thing... Ed

I tried this with a credit card sized diamond stone, after reading David C's book and didn't get on that well. I have 2 sets of blades and changeover when one is knackered. There is a temporary solution to a ding in the blade, which is to slightly offset the 2 blades so the ding on one lines up...

I think thats very true - whichever system works for the individual, thats the one to go for. My 2 cents; Waterstones - too messy and a PITA to keep flat Oilstones - never used any good ones, the ones I have tried seemed slow Diamond - my current method and one I can see no obvious fault with...

Interesting. I tried scary sharp years ago with wet and dry and whilst it worked I found it a ball ache. That said, my general woodworking mojo is probably better refined now so I may have a different view if trying again. Since I need to add some additional sharpening media for the workshop...

I advocate cutting by hand, exactly as if they were dovetails as Mike G suggests. Thats how this bench was done; Its fairly straightforward and I reckon the most accurate method providing you're reasonably happy with your sawing skills. Ed

I find this type is better than most; Available from Axminster, other tool stores are available... Ed

I wouldn't worry about it - layout is a preference thing so as I said earlier there is no right and wrong. As a whole I think the piece is visually balanced and nicely executed. Ed