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Fairly recently someone on here posted a link to a very good comparison of properties and performance of different glues. Failed to bookmark it and now I can't find it, of course. Can anyone help please? Jim

Quite agree. Jim

A technique I have used on poly with good success is to cut back with wet and dry using white spirit as the lubricant. If the resulting thin slurry is wiped off across the grain it has some grian filling effect. Jim

Is that all? Sounds quite quick to me. Jim

Pete is absolutely right. Quite apart from the CO and fire risks, the last thing you want ot be doing is pumping all that water vapour into your workshop. Jim

Welcome to the forum, Russ. PVA is fine for most purposes. For outdoor use, use a waterproof version. If you want to get into veneering or laminating, epoxy or urea formaldehyde glues (Cascamite) are a better option. UF is also good for high moisture areas. JIm

Douglas, I used poly on our then pitch pine kitchen over 20 years ago and when we replaced it two years ago with cherry worktops I used OSMO. The pitch pine?poly finish needed redoing by the time it was replaced but was in remarkably good shape all things considered. The Osmo cherry seems...

Hi Vidar, It is really all about what you are looking to achieve. I have to agree that there is no substitute for testing on pieces of scrap to see what you like. For my own part, I use both oil and shellac, but never together. As Carl says, shellac will seal the wood and prevent the oil...

In some ways I am with Nick on this debate but I come at it from a slightly different angle. I simply can't see any reason to buy an LN over a Clifton if you want a Stanley copy. Plane for plane they do the same job to the same standard as far as I can see and the Clifton is British and...

Hope you are insured. Jim

Certainly worth thinking about, it gives a great finish with little effort. It's gun stock oil, available from gun shops but buy the smallest size - it goes a long way and has a limited shelf life. Jim

If you can spare the space, I would go with 3 x 2 so that you can get thicker insulation unless you are a really hardy soul or have deep pockets for heating. Jim

Custard, I think the comments (and certainly mine) raising the tables and losing the settings relate to the need to accommodate the dust chute rather than raising the tables as such, but I do worry about whether they will go down again exactly as before forever, particularly if there is any...

In theory, yes. In reality, the more you move big chunks of cast iron the more likely they are to go out of adjustment. Much better all round not to have to do it. Sorry to be a bore but that brings me back to the Moretens, although I realise it will be out of the reach of many. If i didn't...

Absolutely. Jim

There are knife setting gadgets out there. I have two, a Rutlands one which turned out to be too big for the gap between the tables on my Moretens (must get round to putting it on ebay) and an Axminster which I haven't yet needed to use so I can't comment on how much time they save, but if it...

I am sure Jacob's approach will work but if, like me, you really don't want to copy you could try my approach which has been to look at as many examples as I can (preferably actual pieces rather than images) and work out in my own mind what really works, what I like about them, what I don't...

Not my experience at all but I guess it may depend on how suitable your extraction is for a machine of this capacity. I started with a small Camvac and extraction performance was awful, but with a proper HVLP system rated to the sort of dust/chip output a machine of this capacity can produce it...

There is a solution to this problem in the form of the Swedish Moretens H410 planer thicknesser. I have one myself and can thoroughly recommend it if your budget will stretch that far. It has the usual under and over arrangement but the tables do not lift and the extraction serves both...

I ame sure epoxy and real veneer will work just fine as long as the present pleatic surface is flat. Jim