Garage conversion

[worsley947]

Good morning all , I am about to move house and I will have a concrete sectional garage that I will convert into my workshop, I will insulate and board up the inside,
my question is when I make up the timber frame out of 2x2 will I need to put on a vapour barrier, if so, should I put it on the timber to go against the conrete or put it on after I have put the insulation in and before I put the timber sheeting on the frame
Any help and advise would be great
Many thanks
Dave

 

[carlb40]

Hi Dave
Have a quick search of the forum as it must be that time of year. As there have been a few similar threads over the last few weeks.

But as to the floor. Vapour barrier - timber ( do not wrap timber in the VB - needs to breath) - insulation between joists - then ply

 

[Lord Kitchener]

When I did this I put dpm on the floor, then laid T&G MR chipboard in 8x2 sheets over it, it worked very well. The tongue and grooves meant that I didn't get raised edges between the sheets, which is good if you need to slide stuff around.

 

[twothumbs]

2x2 but best tanalised (treated) should be OK. You may need to fit metal ties into the concerte walls about mid way to prevent bounce. Quite usual to do that, and will take shelves, etc. Use dense insualtion, like woodwool slabs, that way they wont slump after it gets tired after a while and pressed in between studs. Go to a builderes merchant for the slabs. The golden rule is to put the vapour barrier on the warm side. If you are going to put fixed items all over the walls you could board out witth ply and put a spacer between 2x2 studs and the ply. The ply can be 'shuttering' quality or it may have a different name now. Merchants will know what you mean. Use spacers like something like tiling battens for ease iof buying and it is already treated. The space left is good for running cables/conduit down. If you lay a floating floor ie insulation with ply or similar on top you would do well to put a couple layers of polythene on top of insulation be allow slip and this should be turned up the wall and so join the wall vapour barrier. Best if you tape the two togetherr at the join. You can tack the polythene onto the wall studs with drawing pins or small clout nails simply to hold it in place whilst you ''fiddle' about. Do it before you move in....so much easier. Remember the need for a possible threshold! Best wishes.

 

[Matt@]

presumably you could use cellotex instead of insulation wool?

 

[yetloh]

If you can spare the space, I would go with 3 x 2 so that you can get thicker insulation unless you are a really hardy soul or have deep pockets for heating.

Jim

 

[Waka]

What you are proposing to do I have already done.
I battened out the floor and walls with 2" x 2" at 24" intervals for the walls and 18" intervals for the floor. Then I filled the gaps with xtratherm insulation slabs, this was then covered with t & g flooring sheets. I did the same for the ceiling, really nice and cosy.
The only heating I use is 4 120 W tube heaters which raise the temp by 6 degrees above base temp. At the moment its -2 outside and the temp in the shop is 8 degrees without any heating on. So it works for me.

Oh also covered up and over door with xtratherm and put draft excluder around the door.

 

[twothumbs]

Yes to Celotex. The problem nowadays with thick insulation board ie say 3 or 4" thick it is difficult to cut and put betweeen studs or rafters and so you end up with a poor fit which adds up to a big reduction in advanatge.. The thick boards are best fitted across the face of the uprights. Ideally for between studs you want to you use something you can jam in tight with no gaps for air. The thicker boards held in with a skew nail isnt so good....but it is what you do, etc, as we know so well here with so many good ideas and help. You lose something like 25% heat throgh the roof so Yaka will be warm. Best wishes.

 

[bonzo]

Hi Dave, I'm in the same boat as you at the moment, extending and insulating my sectional garage. You might be interested in these links I found, as well as previous threads on here...

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/ ... p?th=48023

http://community.screwfix.com/thread/9308

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/new ... ionID=2800

 

[worsley947]

Many thanks for all the replys guys, I will sort it out when I move in
Dave