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I'm a law professor, and my first article on electronic evidence was published in I think 1987. But definitely worth checking!

Simply, yes. There's complexity about their evidential value, but in an example where everyone is clearly identifiable from the video, that wouldn't be a problem either. So threats of violence is not a very sensible approach.

AJ's link says that if this is pre 2019 then it's catalysed polyester. CA is the chip repair for that, and you can buy black CA. The technique is to build up slowly in layers until the repair stands proud of the surface, scrape back with a razor blade, then sand and polish. Plenty of YouTube...

That's oak, isn't it? If so these are part of the natural grain of the wood - they are slices through the medullary rays which are found in oak. Here's an example of how they might look on the quarter sawn face (though yours has fewer rays): 4/4 QUARTER-SAWN WHITE OAK

I have a cunning plan for my guitar repair, which is first to remove the fingerboard binding. That will let me see the glue line, and if I can release the fingerboard over the body with heat then ... I'll cut through the fingerboard 2 or 3 frets back from the neck join and remove that portion...

Close except for step 9, which will probably be a bit more drawn out than you planned. To get something like a mirror finish: a. Sand level (I'd wet sand) working up through the grits to P1000 or higher. b. Polish up using car automotive polish like T-Cut. For the full effect, move up after...

Not all! I'm mulling over a neck reset on a friend's acoustic guitar, probably 70s Japan made. It could be attached with AMG (Asian Mystery Glue). This has baffled luthiers for years, heat doesn't melt it, solvents don't soften it. Some relative of Cascamite?? I guess I should ask here, any way...

From the graph, in 1928 it took around 5 days.

Hot hide glue is easier than most people think, because it reactivates with heat. I began building instruments using hot hide glue for some forgotten (probably romantic) reason, and tend to use it for most joints. To glue on an instrument back, for example, you just glue up and apply clamps at...

If you really want a glass look you will need to wet sand level once the finish has fully cured. Start at say 300 grit and work up to 1000 or 2000. Then buff. Automotive compound will get you a nice shine at that point, but full gloss will require further buffing with finer compounds. If you do...

I've used shellac over an epoxy pore fill with no problems. Give the epoxy a few days to cure fully first Dewaxed tends to be preferred as its easier to get a hard shine.

Sorry to bear bad news. The CA has soaked into the fibres, and it will be very visible under finish. The only fix I know is to sand or scrape back until it is all gone. At that point your cracks should still be filled. Unless you plan to paint it :) In future a couple of wiped on coats of...

Stepping back to tibi's original question .... My answer is from the perspective of someone who has several years experience but little planing time - I mainly make ukuleles, so I'm planing small bits of wood! So I'm a bit further on, but not a huge amount. I'd say the important thing is to...

This eBay seller offers 16mm internal diameter springs, in pretty colours! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Load-Duty-Compression-Die-Spring-ISO-10-50mm-Diameter-Up-To-102mm-Long/223992624315?hash=item34270034bb:g:necAAOSwBUlfjsxd You could probably find another seller who has bare metal...

A toothed blade is used for both, or at least I would do if I ever applied veneer. The toothing for veneers is a little fine for working curly grain, but it still does the job.

Any wood which has been in that workshop for months will be at a similar MC to the other wood there. From experience, a 2mm thick board takes a couple of days to acclimate to indoors from the workshop. So a 24 mm board should take 12 days or so - a couple of weeks. If I were using that wood...

My scrub plane is an old Continental-style (horned front handle) smoother, which has a wide mouth and a 2 inch blade with a tight radius, between 2 ins and 3 ins. So it makes a scoop only around 1/2 inch wide when cutting. I use it for thicknessing figured timber. I regularly need to reduce a...

I'd say the first question is whether the wood is suitable for the job. For some things almost any species might do. But I make ukuleles and guitars, and an ebony soundboard wouldn't do the job at all well, plus it would be ludicrously expensive. Spruce works well and is far cheaper, but for the...

I've made ukuleles and guitars, but those are very different animals! However, plans for instruments tend to be somewhat overbuilt, to try to avoid someone's first build ending up with structural failure. I'd guess that harp plans might be the same. So it would be worth joining a harp building...

Hot water applied via a cotton wool bud usually removes most PVA. Slow job though.