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Your first shelf height is 210mm, your 9th shelf height is 365mm, you want even spacing between them. Therefore shelf 9 has a height of 210mm plus 8 times your gap increment. 210 + 8x = 365, therefore x is 19.375mm. So each shelf spacing needs to be 19.375mm greater than the last, given your...

Interesting thoughts Eric. The main purpose of having a geared drive between router carriage and chuck on Bill Hylton's router lathe is to cut spirals. For this purpose, I would have thought a 2mm thread form for the carriange to be far too fine to drive from the headstock as you will need to...

Have you seen Bill Hylton's design for a Router Lathe? As opposed to leadscrews and precision gears, it uses bike gear components. The chuck has a large chain ring on the back of it, which drives a parallel shaft which is attached to a bevel gearbox. This rotates a chain along the bed of the...

The best book I've read on the subject is that by Christopher Schwartz. The image in the blog post looks like a take on the Old English style of workbench that Schwartz talks about in his book. I think the main reason that the English style has been squeezed out by more open designs is that the...

If you're prepared to spend a few hours building rather than buying, how about a hinged top bench mounted table? I made one recently (see thread here: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/bench-top-router-table-t66404.html) and I'm getting on with it very well. I agree with the above sentiments...

They can be ok. In particular the Yamaha ones can be good, but most of the good stuff isn't cheap. Their connectivity is generally a lot more limited than a proper AV receiver, and some of them rely on picking up your TV renoir signal rathe than having their own dedicated control (the latter is...

An alternative to consider is the Delta 36-T30, which is a similar design. Can be had online for under $200 before shipping and import duty, if you really don't want to make one yourself.

You can get biomass boilers that will burn sawdust loose, but the only ones I know of are expensive (like £5k+ expensive). For the size of your operation I would imagine a stove like the Greenheart is the way to go.

Hmmm. I'd check that the economics of that stack up. The quote "Production costs only 40p or less per one hour" ties in with the stated power draw of 3.42kW - using something like 3 units an hour of electric. With the stated production of 6-15kg/hr, that means your briquettes are costing about...

Wow, £400 for a router? Most certainly a better built machine than the Draper, but doesn't really offer much in capability over it and for a first machine that is a lot of outlay. The Draper is £100 in Yandles for comparison. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Having never been on a course and used chainsaws since I was a teenager, I would say that it depends entirely what you are going to do with it and how competent you feel with tools like these. If you are primarily going to be bucking (cutting up logs on the ground/in a saw horse) and cutting...

Thanks for your replies, I hadn't twigged that you need to make an elongated slot with the router - thought it was the same as using a biscuit jointer in that you just plunge in. So the bigger diameter groover the better.

I've been given a pack of #10 biscuits. I haven't used biscuit joinery before, and I don't own a biscuit joiner, but I know that you can do the cuts with a router instead. I have a 4mm groover (a Wealden's 60mm Heavy Duty one), is this up to the task? I know it needs to be 4mm slot height but...

I'll add a vote for the Draper Expert combo (MR1350K, 45368). A solid tool for hand held use and in a table with small to medium sized cutters.

I'd also recommend a Scheppach, I have the HMS260 and my experience so far is it's a capable machine. The HMS260 and 2600 frequently turn up for sale here and on eBay - expect to pay 1/3 to 1/2 the retail cost of a new machine. There's not a lot to go wrong and parts are readily available from...

UFH mats would work but for the low temperatures - I think most are rated to around 40°C. Also even the high power ones are only about 200W/m² - not sure that would be enough to reach the required temps.

Aluminium is a very good conductor of heat, so I would be surprised if you had any problems with uneven temperatures. It's a shame the heat pads are so expensive, that would have worked well I reckon. There are other ways to tackle the problem - bond heater wire onto the aluminium surface...

You can do them on the router table, but that doesn't mean that you should. If you must do them on the table, then the technique I've seen is as follows: 1. Mark the start and end of the mortice slots on the router table, either by drawing on it or by making marks on some masking tape 2. Set...

If I were building something like this, I'd look at bonding some heater mats or some other kind of electrical heating element to the non-press side. You'd have a precise and repeatable process then.

I basically followed the plans for the table from "Router Magic", and extended the length a little. It's an excellent book which is crammed full of useful jig ideas. I'm not sure if you can get it new, but Amazon is showing a number of second hand copies available. If you draw a blank send me a...