Router table and router

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Chippygeoff

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Before I go and part with my hard earned cash I need some advice. I need to buy a small router table and a router. It has to be small as space is limited. The main criteria is that I need to be able to adjust the cutter height without bending under a table as I am disabled and this would not be impossible. I have had a good look at whats available and at the top of my list is the Trend CRT Mk3 router table with the Trend T11 router.

Its main use will be to put a moulded edge on plaques and to make small plinths in 18mm hardwoods. I like the idea that the cutter can be raised or lowered with a socket. I will be doing end grain work as well but have heard that the mitre fence is a sloppy fit and if this is the case I am worried I wont get a true 90 degree finish to a square base. I am sure there are some of you out there with this combination and if so could you give me your opinion please. Many thanks.
 
Hi
Forget the mitre gauge, they are of very limited use on a router table. Instead use bearing guided cutters and reference off the main fence, support the work piece with a square scrap of mdf, this will give you all he support and guidance that you need for this task and will also help to control tear out on the trailing edge.
HTH
Cheers
Richard
 
I don't know about the RT but I did have a T11 for a while. The rise/fall mechanism is good, but the precision of the rest of it was not. Check the centricity pf the cutter WRT the base. If you are not going to use guide bushes it doesn't matter.
 
If you're prepared to spend a few hours building rather than buying, how about a hinged top bench mounted table? I made one recently (see thread here: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/bench-top-router-table-t66404.html) and I'm getting on with it very well. I agree with the above sentiments about mitre gauges - the best accessory (unless you have a spindle-moulder type sliding carriage) is a sliding fence. Imagine two wooden runners that sit either side of the table nice and snug, and a fence running between them from front to back, with a sacrificial fence on it and a stop to position the work in the front/back plane as you look at the table. This gives good stability as you push the work along from left to right. I'm building one for my table at the moment, when done I'll update my thread.
 
Don't buy a router table make one, keep it simple to start with and as you get to know what you need improve it.
 
Many thanks Guys. All your help and advice is much appreciated. I had a look at the Bosch router and its a lot more money than the T11. I have a Bosch router I use for free hand work and the T11 will not be moved once its fixed to the table. I am now confident the set up will be exactly what I need and will serve for many years so you can guess where I am off to tomorrow, the local tool shop. Thanks again.
 
I meant to have added, I could not make a fully functional router table as I have no available space, would have to make it in the kitchen but then I don't have all the tooling that would be needed either.
 
Have you seen the Axminster Premier Benchtop Router Table. I bought one of those last year and is a great piece of kit. Sorry not been able to post a link

Chris
 
Steve Maskery":18xg13go said:
If you have the space, it's hard to beat Norm Abrams' design. Yes it is quite big, but it's also all storage, so very efficient.
S

Agreed 100%
and can double up as a base for a bench drill, and bench morticer when not being used in router mode :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Roger
 

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