Search results

Sandvik sandplate.

I can make one for you. To discover the thread size, take a pencil or other suitable piece of fine grained wood and whittle it down to a cylinder of the correct diameter, slightly tapered at the end. Screw it carefully into the hole and unscrew it - you should now see traces of the threads...

From photo IMG_0397.JPG I think that you may not have had the steel hot enough when you tinned it as the tinning looks rather "pasty" to me. I suggest that you try again but first practice tinning and joining on smaller pieces of scrap steel. The flux I use is a sort of brown paste - I think...

Excellent. Has Jimi seen it?

This photo is of a Riley Tool Works scratch awl (sadly I think they are no longer made). The main taper is about 7 degrees and the tip taper is about 30 degrees (tapers expressed as whole angles).

Stanley No.78 is also usable one handed for cutting rebates.

I tried the little Record 043 plough plane one handed and it worked fine.

I am happy to report that the WD40 and a little persuasion have done the trick. Thanks again.

I think a block plane would be worth trying.

Thanks Andy and Rhyolith. I'll give it a good dose of WD40 and see how it is tomorrow.

This drill turns smoothly and the chuck works well but it has two problems: - The first problem is that the side handle is missing. I solved that by making a new one. The thread is 3/8" x 20 TPI, which is neither UNC nor UNF. I think it is one of the now obsolete US threads that tool...

Yes, very useful. Thanks for taking the trouble to post it.

The paper wrapping of the gauge plate (O1 steel) has tempering instructions:

O1 steel can be cut by hacksaw and filed in the annealed state (as delivered). Scribe a line on each side at the desired width, saw outside the line, then file down to the line, finish by draw-filing.

A barbecue is good for heat treating irons. Dusk is a good time so the red heat shows up. When it is hot enough a magnet will no longer stick to the iron (thanks to Pete Maddex for that useful tip). I quench in used cooking oil as it doesn't make a filthy smell like engine oil. Holding the...

I'm sorry I don't know if Ryther's are protected spring chucks but I'd be interested to find out. I am new to chuck technology and all I have learned is from the links above. I used needle nose pliers to shape the springs.

A few questions: - Do you have a drawing or sketch of what you want the finished plane to look like? - What metalwork tools and facilities do you have? - What is the width of the mouth? A few initial points: - If the iron is bevel up you will not need a chip breaker. - A good iron can be made...

The pins I used were considerably harder to snip than paper clips. The springs work OK up to now but if they don't last I'll look for some other material.

Gouges rather than chisels are normally used for musical instrument hollowing work. What sort of instruments are you working on?

Thanks to you all for the useful information and links. I have made some springs cut from large safety pins. It took several attempts to get the shape just right. The photo below shows one of the unsuccessful attempts. I also made the interesting discovery that the end of the handle unscrews...