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Nice job on the table. I'm currently using the same stuff on a very large linen chest and if it's applied correctly, it gives a superb finish - Rob

I've used Tuff saw blades, but there are other brands around which are equally as good; just Google 'good bandsaw blades'...plenty of options - Rob

I'd use standard silicon carbide 'wet n'dry' paper stuck to your granite block with something like 'Spraymount' adhesive and then just wet the surface(s) with a spray of water. If you want to move upwards in sharpening films, then use the self-adhesive 3M films from somewhere like Workshop...

If I need to make a new handle, it's usually a 'London' pattern, with the hole being the first thing drilled once the blank has been mounted in the lathe. I've made a few of these and I found that to get a pleasant 'sweep' or curve, a small ferule needs to be used; the pilot hole is drilled...

Agree here with Andy; if it's made from solid material it's almost certain to move and open up over time, so veneered boards IMO is the way to do it. If you were to use 2mm thick veneer (either constructional or bandsawn) the mitred join wouldn't be too tricky to level, but with wafer thin 0.6mm...

Agreed, most punters have no idea (or very little) of what things actually cost to make. Materials, including hardware (say a decent set of hinges from Brusso or Ian Hawthorne) could set probably set you back over a £100, then you'd need to factor in your time to make the job. If I do...

The technique of attaching a separate block cut from the same stock is one that I first saw in Rob Ingham's book 'Cutting Edge Cabinetmaking'. The Heal's shelving units are very good but they, as you say, would have had to use wider material to accommodate the curve and much of it would then be...

I have done that joint in the past but not on this job; I simply used a carefully matched piece of elm which was glued to the top of each leg in order to provide enough material for the internal curve Edit - the blocks of elm came off the bottom of each leg (they were left deliberately over...

Completed this morning; a pair of wine tables in Elm with solid burr Elm tops: Constructed using dominos and finished with six coats of Peacock Oil which was left for a week in a very warm workshop to cure, then finished with a good application of Alfie Shine, again left for three days to...

Try this: https://www.axminster.co.uk/polyvine-wa ... h-ax715653 - Rob

Try the Polyvine Wax finish. Available in flat matt, satin etc and superb. Apply thinly, cut back each time with 1500g w/d paper (or similar) and gradually build up the thickness of finish required; finally polish with some Burnishing Cream if needed - Rob

I helped 'Rob the Miller' slab up a large Walnut butt last month...see the UToob clip here - Rob

I don't see any reason why you can't veneer over existing veneer Steve, but those are gurt big panels...approx 7' in old money and you may be pushed to find a bag big enough (if that's how you intend to veneer them). You've also got to find some method of shooting in/joining the veneers which...

Tesa tape is good (I've used in in the past) but there's other stuff out there which is equally as stretchy and sticky. I'm currently using some rather excellent 3M tape for veneering - Rob

Spot on Aidan - Rob

I had the slightly bigger W650 version; within two months the main bearings had failed. As a consequence I personally wouldn't go near anything Charnwood with a very large barge pole - Rob

Good to hear it got to you safely - Rob

I've got the very small Clifton one with the wedge and I do use it sometimes but it's only very occasionally; for me it's a tool with very limited uses - Rob

Same here. The only videos I watch are the Peter Sellers variety; much more entertaining :lol: - Rob

Use some Everbuild D4; no issues with gluing walnut - Rob