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Yep, if you do as Chas suggests and match up the end grain the 'fix' will be invisible - Rob

They don't really and secondly, yes - Rob

Peter does everything properly; it's not difficult when you see the right way to go about it - Rob

I made one recently, detailed on this thread which works superbly. It's based on one made by Mitch Peacock on his UToob channel and is an enhancement of the original Robert Wearing design - Rob

If those boards are relatively new, you'll also find that they will almost certainly have had the life sucked out of them by kiln drying. I tried to make something a few years ago with oddments of new floor boards and I gave up as the oak was virtually unworkable - Rob

TB3 is good but costs an arm and both legs. Everbuild D4 is equally as good, fully waterproof and is about a third of the price. I question the use of Osmo Top Oil as well; suitable for kitchen work tops (it says so on the tin :D ) but I wouldn't put it on a cutting board. Much safer to use an...

We're discussing primarily hobbyists here who can take whatever risks they want regarding elf n'safety within the confines of their own workshops. The situation is very different in professional shops where a whole raft of H&S regulations has to be met and abided by which includes guarding on...

I've always found Yandles to be pretty good, especially at their shows (2 or now just 1?) The range of tools and equipment on offer is great as is their stocks of timber in the shed. If you go looking for timber, it's a good idea to take a pocket flashlight as it's pretty dim in there and I've...

This was always the way I used to pull up picture frames and it does work...but, you need to find a material for the cord that won't stretch, so white nylon cord doesn't work very well - Rob

I'd agree here with Mike; always buy more than you actually need and put the excess into stock. It's not too difficult to plane out the 'wind' on boards that are say, 150mm wide but you'll loose (as Mike says) some thickness so it really depends on whether or not you can get away with it? For...

To make a raised panel (including the parallel section that slots into the groove) accurately with hand tools, so that it looks half respectable is actually quite difficult. I've done it once or twice and don't want to repeat the process but conversely, it's dead easy in a router table - Rob

Try the Everbuild D4 next time...fandabby stuff - Rob

Have you read Custard's rather excellent sticky on this subject? It all makes sense once you can see how to do it properly :D - Rob

Yep, make yourself a shooter...this one. I use one like this as does Custard. Dead easy to make, dead easy to adjust for 'true' ('cos they always eventually go out of kilter) and it just works....brilliantly! I've made loads of the things over the decades and this is the best one out there by a...

Yep, easy to make them then in a router table, remembering to reduce the motor speed accordingly - Rob

Agreed, but worth it as I only use Ax turning gear and it was bought at the same time as my VS1628 so the total package was within budget - Rob

This one for all the reasons given and 43 uncensored reviews - Rob

I built a bookcase recently with twin sliding, bronze colour glass doors, 6mm thick, edges ground and polished with a concave finger pull ground in each door. I didn't feel the need to go down the toughened route but even so, there was very little change out of £150 for the pair - Rob

Bang on the money. Teak...but it might not be. You'll know if it's teak because it feels 'waxy' on the surface (which is in fact a type of rubber) and it will blunt a sharp plane blade after only a few passes - Rob

Here as well - https://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-g ... 3-ax931532 - Rob