Dirty material, wrong polarity, wrong wire feed, gas rate, arc length can all contribute
Mig-welding.Co.uk forum has a lot of helpful and knowledgable people that are good at trouble shooting
6013 are less fussy, 7018 does like to be stored in a heated quiver, but if you’re just fabricobbling stuff that won’t be structural, load bearing or critical then just use them. I find 7018 more finicky so only use them if I need to, but my welding is something I’m very much still amateur at
Cs95 is equivalent to 1095, so should be fine, the smudge extra carbon wouldn’t cause me much concern. Seems like it’s 48-51 HRC which should be fine to file.
Spurred on by some of the recent threads on saws
I have this 14” King Company, Hull saw
Hard to show in a picture but a definite curve in the blade from heel to tip
So to start I went take the handle off but remembered why I hadn’t tried before, the slots in the nuts have been sanded...
Thanks @IWW for that detailed reply, I shall give it a go today and see how I get on.
When you say tap the spine up and down, trying to work out which way is up- Hitting the spine down towards the teeth, or towards the handle, or tapping the sides?
I have rubber feet on my 2” endgrain maple board, the air circulation helps keep the board flat and then stops any risk of it moving use
This style but white rather than clear
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124279105772?
I have the same bench. Lervad makes decent kit. I do wish it was bigger though.
The footprint of the frame is small so either needs bolting down or reworking. Could do with being higher too. I fix mine in a super jaws to use it.
Clamping capacities are good for smaller pieces, but it’s a...
Can’t imagine the feelings of loss you must have.
Sometimes the hardest thing is to let other people help, try not to think you have to deal with this alone.
It’ll be fine, there’s food safe and then there’s don’t drink a pint of it. What you might ingest is anything on the surface if it formed a film so a quick sand or scrape would get rid of that.
Gently heated beeswax and mineral oil makes a board butter that gives good water repellency to stop...
Most epoxy softens with heat. On smaller things I’ve heated them by putting in a ziplock and boiling. From memory think you need to get to c60-70c
Could try a heat gun tentatively but may interfere with any finishes
It’s not a pigsticker though.
Couple of options , I’d be tempted by the padauk here Chisel Handles & Ferrules
Or if you know someone with a lathe it would be a nice project to turn another.
The existing handle is boxwood which would be harder to find in a stock replacement
If it’s going to be painted it’s a good excuse to use some less visually interesting timber, if all that was rosewood underneath it would be a shame to my mind.