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Cheers for the thoughts, I had thought the odd curve may have knackered it- always tempting to just use the blade in the saw rather than faff about swapping it out for a cut or two. New blades enroute from tuffsaws anyway, had lost a few teeth in the m42 blade in my metal bandsaw so will be...

Interested in general thoughts, just had a bandsaw blade snap, machine was running but I hadn’t initiated the cut yet. For a bit before that it had started drifting so I had the feeling was on its way out. The teeth still felt fairly sharp to touch and we’re still cutting without any effort...

Surprised sandpaper is causing tear out, continue up the grits sanding with the direction of the grain. 120g is still quite coarse

Nice, I’ll wait a few weeks before sowing mine, I take up enough room indoors having projects gluing up in the warmth of the house Planning on mostly Mexican varieties this year to give a good mix of flavour and heat.

I live in a terrace and when we redid the back of the house I had the walls lined with soundproof plasterboard. It’s much better than it used to be, not perfect but better. Not sure what other option you have that would help

Will the chillis need continued heat to get going? I put up a greenhouse last year and itching to get stuff going in there but with energy prices being so high not keen on having to do much heating

Hypodermic needle and solder/superglue?

When I want a faster quench I heat my quench oil to 70c. I know of people who go up to 180c (but that’s for a specific steel that won’t be what your chisel is made of)

Temp is more important than curie, it’s just a handy coincidence for basic steels- go with the IR thermometer and aim for 800

Yeah curie is helpful in the case of simple steels, and a magnet is cheaper than a thermocouple or an IR thermometer. Household salt melts at 800c so can be another useful guide for temp without needing any kit. With tempering part of why I’m suggesting lower is as in a home oven you can see...

Just to add to some of the points in the thread The OP has already tried to re heat treat so the factory condition is gone. It’s pretty old so will be a fairly simple steel, so shouldn’t need much soak time at temp ( soak at temp is needed for alloyed stuff). Curie point (where metals lose...

What was your rehardening process? If you’ve just blowtorched the end and dunked in oil and it’s still soft then I’d suggest redoing but dunk in brine (salt and water). Will either harden or break or you could just keep it as a beater chisel. If it holds a lot of meaning to you, knocking the...

Just to check - A 10mm wide by 1mm deep rebate in 4mm thick stock Work holding for handwork will rely on having a bench of some sort. I’d use a rebate plane with a fence as it’ll be pretty quick work and doesn’t need a big tooling investment. A Stanley or record 78 would do it and they used to...

Nice bit of wrought, is the crew box missing or is it just threaded on the rear jaw?

People make cutting boards from all sorts - doesn’t mean they’re best suited. Quite often aesthetics are favoured over functionality. Maple is ideal, though 20mm is a little thin for end grain so will need more glue. Sycamore and beech are traditional kitchen timbers in uk, maple being...

Scratches from sanding are a visual rather than tactile thing. You still a fair bit of work to get rid of the coarse scratches. 240grit, with the grain. Something like abranet will not clog and help. Stop regularly and check progress, a wipe with ipa/white spirit/ meths can help show up wayward...

Exciting

Part of why I asked steel type- if air hardening or hardened stainless then localised annealing isn’t really doable

Any idea on type of steel and hardness? If something like O1 worth checking if you could anneal the site of the hole with a torch, as tool wear will be high with that number of holes. For 13mm holes you’d be better off with a carbide tipped annular cutter in a mag drill. If budget won’t stretch...

Molasses works well for heavily corroded items