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I'm on my second Kaarcher industrial-grade pressure washer. The first one managed roughly 20 years but finally gave up last year when seals blew and the motor kept filling with water (about 2 litres - it worked fine for about 15 secs each time it was drained and dried, then it tripped the ELCB...

I don't think you'll regret it. If you bought the tables, the only thing I've _needed_ to do to mine was to take a block plane to the little rectangular pegs that protroude through from the legs. I needed to take off about 0.25mm to get them dead flush with the surface. The dogs are _very_...

There's also Ron Fox stuff on Wealden's web site. He's a bit slow (to the modern viewer), but his videos are very good otherwise. But you've just had a superb offer from Ilkley! :-)

I like Tilgear - have bought from them in the past and been pleased. Brass takes threads really nicely and easily. If that's all you want it for, an inexpensive set should be fine. Stainless and cast iron, however, can be rather awkward, especially when hand tapping. I've done the latter a...

To echo Steve's point - Trefolex rocks! Unless you are doing something odd like making small steam engines, you'll find you only need a very few sizes anyway. I bought only as/when I needed, and better quality sets of three taps at a time. I think the Chinese manufacturers often throw in sizes...

I suspect the scale is for the saw just running on the surface, without the rail. FWIW, my Makita is like that and it's annoying, especially as I have both 160mm and 165mm blades! The bigger blade is the official one for mine, otherwise the scale is way out. With the mains plug out, I usually...

Look for a local-ish branch of Swemco - they sharpen knives for the printing industry, i.e. several metres long, with razor edges. I have a small-ish printer's guillotine probably made around 1900 (I haven't researched it), but it will do a 2" stack of A4 lengthwise with ease and it's about as...

Axminster? Seriously, (a) their customer service is excellent, (b) they do carry a lot of spares, (c) there are many interchangeable parts with the TS200, and I think the sliding carriage system is one such. It's also common-ish to other similar saws. If you look for images on Google you...

+1 here, John. Hope you make a quick recovery.

It's a "conceit". In other words nothing has really changed except the labels. They are (or should be) still 240V tools, just labeled as 230V. It comes down to EU "harmonization," to introduce a "standard" voltage across Europe, irrespective of whether or not it is technically sensible. The...

A couple of thoughts: 0. I agree: it looks like a significant improvement over the TS200 in many ways. 1. You mentioned blade alignment (setup), and that Axminster consider this a service issue: Because it seems to have "proper" trunnions, which are referenced to the frame of the thing, you...

Yup. I was taught they were torsion pendulums, but disc pendulum describes them exactly, and I'm pretty sure they're also 400-day (i.e. "anniversary" wound) clocks too, as described by the OP. I don't remember FiL's one having a groove, but it makes a lot of sense as it would let you balance...

It looks like the wires are in the correct places, but, given the current required, those actual connections look nasty. The bare copper ought to be properly grabbed (caught up) by the terminal post or at least a brass/plated washer on top. There is too much copper showing. I suspect either...

Sorry - speed read the OP in a sunny spot on my tablet "second brand" became "secondhand" in my head!

I had forgotten about father in law's one until your post - I looked at it in the 1990s and gave up (I think now he soldered it). I suspect work hardening and fracturing of the actual pendulum is an issue with them.

They are not complex, but they need the ability to measure fairly precisely and to machine small parts, as watchmakers and clockmakers do. Meadows and Passmore sell the actual pendulums and a range of (pricey!) glass domes, but I don't think they have other parts. FiL has one with a broken...

Bearings and/or brushes. Brushes are probably easier to change, so I would do those first (and check the commutator isn't chipped or badly grooved for some reason. Blow the thing out with an airline, too, but check carefully for signs anything has broken off inside (to repair you will want the...

They are re-sharpenable. I took several to our local saw doctors last summer, and they came back really nicely sharp. They tell me there is plenty of carbide so they can be re-done a few times yet. IIRC it cost around ten quid per blade, which makes it very cost-effective. I like thin kerf (and...

I'd strongly suggest you have a look at a Trend T11 before pulling the trigger on the Triton. At least then you can be certain you don't like it :-) E. PS: I don't own a Triton (did seriously consider it for a while).

Mine is the same model. Here's what I did: It's only a 12mm bolt (head sawn off so the unthreaded end goes into the adjuster rather than the handwheel), and the wheel came from Axminster (I don't think they still sell them, but they're on eBay, etc.). It's a 6mm bolt through the 12mm bolt, with...