Makita track saw SP6000j1

[Quickben]

Yes, Bob, it was the North Shields store (now moved to Tyne Tunnel Trading Estate) and recently, since I've been trying to bring a knackered old Axi bandsaw back to life, my second home. Also just bought one of their trade drill presses.

Yes, the thin kerf blade affects the splinter strip. There's a 0.6mm gap. Another reason I'm going back to the 2.2mm blade.

The only reason I replaced the original Makita blade so quickly was because I nadgered it cutting laminated kitchen bench. Huge difference before and after.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I found the supplied blade very good but a couple of laminate flooring jobs (notoriously hard on blades) have taken the edge off it now. I gave mine a clean with oven cleaner after the first job which does give it a new (albeit shorter) lease of life.

They are re-sharpenable. I took several to our local saw doctors last summer, and they came back really nicely sharp. They tell me there is plenty of carbide so they can be re-done a few times yet. IIRC it cost around ten quid per blade, which makes it very cost-effective.

I like thin kerf (and Freud) blades generally, but now stick with the "standard-issue" ones for the tracksaw as I think they vibrate less and give a cleaner cut.

E.

PS: I used an offcut of water waste pipe as an adaptor (to the Numatic/Henry hoses) for ages, but the German Parkside (Lidl) vacuum hose fits directly without need for an adaptor, so now I use that in preference.

 

[Lons]

Yes, Bob, it was the North Shields store (now moved to Tyne Tunnel Trading Estate) and recently, since I've been trying to bring a knackered old Axi bandsaw back to life, my second home. Also just bought one of their trade drill presses.

You're a bit closer than me ( 50 mile round trip ) so I can't just sneak in as the missus would get suspicious. :lol:

I use a couple of Freud blades in my table saw and they are pretty good.

 

[johnnyb]

ive had mine for many years and 4 years profesionally. its a grand saw. durable and accurate and remarkably powerful. for general joinery a tip i got on here was use a coarse blade. i got a festool one. its counterintuitive but is a really good recomendation. also the makita blades ive found really quite poor. the festool blades are what i think makes the difference, they are beautifully made and hold a remarkable edge. coarse blades are also less snatchy during plunging.
clamps are handy 3m rails too. as a jobbing joiner get everything in cases . replace the strip every so often.
always use a dust extractor. the plunge depth is a bit daft it should account for the rail depth. it can kick back cutting solid worktops or unsupported panels....but so can festools. the key is not to undertake dodgy cuts or maybe to recognise what constitutes a dodgy cut.
i love my 3m rail. i reckon its nearly essential on modern kitchens with all those tall end panels.