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Sorry if I misunderstood - I didn't think the corners were rounded but intended to look like an external mitre... in which case a backer _would_ work.

Think about it - your roundover won't really exhibit tearout, as the cutter isn't tearing at anything. The awkward bits are the flat surfaces (the ends and edges/sides of the stiles), when the cutter gets to the long grain. So your sacrificial block will serve at that point. Which leaves the...

Regarding your tearout question: if you must use a router, do the end grain first, then when you do the long grain you remove the tearout. Also use a backer, sacrificial piece of stock on the exit end when doing the end grain. I often knock out mounting plates for things like cabin hooks...

I agree with Mike, but, having played with BJJs a bit, I came to the conclusion they are largely a router tutor's party trick, and almost impossible to get to work nicely. It's very hard to get good quality furniture-grade ply here now (in contrast to the USA, it seems). Usually the veneer is...

[edit] Of course I'm talking about musical instrument speakers. If you mean HiFi cabs, all bets are off, as there are any number of ways of mucking about with the bass. That said, again, absorption in the cabinet really doesn't have effect on the extreme bass. It doesn't work at those frequencies.

Rot. It all depends on the design. I've got a non-ported bass cab here based on a Wilmslow Audio design from the 1970s. Made mostly to their spec, it's 1/2" ply and has a Fane 15" driver, is one-person luggable, and quite practical. You could shove fibreglass insulation inside if you like...

In my defence, I was basing that information on the rate eggs have disappeared from supermarket shelves recently. It was obvious to me that there wouldn't be any more produced before the end of this crisis, so I got five trays worth. I was rather chuffed at my presence of mind, until it became...

Chickens only lay eggs once every six months.

Indeed she did. We miss her here. It's a good idea, but... I can't get to it for a few days now - many DIY priorities here first as at last we are in a dry spell - but I'll take Andy's advice first, and check the skates for linearity and smoothness. I know already that the sides of the...

That's a really good point, analogous to snipe on a thicknesser. It was previously owned by father-in-law and not fettled at all. It's so long since I fettled a Bailey-style plane I'd forgotten about the "sole" in this context - it would make a really big difference if the two ends are out WRT...

Wood stain (spirit-based, not water-based) might work on the edges (arrises), if not, and you can get red and black (or better actual brown) permanent markers (Sharpies?) you might disguise the scuffed arrises (sharp corners) sufficiently. if only red+black, tiny dots of each might do it, to...

Wot Mike said... with the added caveat that router cutters with bearings always follow some sort of edge/template/surface. That's another reason why planing is far better than using a straight router cutter to re-face the edges. With a straight cutter it is very hard to avoid microscopic...

I tend to agree though - I have a Thor copper/rawhide mallet and a rubber one. They have their uses but both will leave marks on wood (masking tape on the rubber mallet would probably help - will try it next time). I find I get better control though with a claw hammer and a hardwood block.

I too have one - takes me back to mucking about with small Italian and Japanese bikes as a teenager! I have a funny feeling though, that a proper powered impact driver, like wot you have, has the same functionality - I mean it hammers into the screw as well as around. So, much as we probably...

Er, it's not much help. :-(

No. I have four routers (well sort-of five), and each is useful. But sometimes I just want quiet... ... and anyway, how hard can it be? (he asked, idiotically).

Thanks both. @Nigel: thanks I had a look at the question and Paul's kind answers, but it doesn't seem to address my issues. the one in Paul's picture has a screw cutter adjuster, which is a far better bet than this awkward lever - loose enough to adjust and the cutter slips, any tighter and you...

[persevere - there is a question near the bottom!] You know how you really want to like someone, but they have odd "social" problems? My Stanley #50 combi plane is one such - we get on famously together for a few minutes, then it all starts to get really awkward. I think it's getting p*ssed...

Agree totally. I don't possess any 18V tools, but Richard our roofer does. When we were doing roof work about 19 months ago, I naively gave him a few (new) diamond bits, as we had to re-use some self-tapping screws (don't ask), and he was having difficulty (and my spares were running out!). I...

Try Wera's diamond-coated bits. I was introduced to them in the 1980s (when they were unusual), and would never use ordinary bits given the choice. They only really have benefit with Phillips and Pozi screws though: Torx- and hex-headed fastners really don't slip. The diamond bits are not...