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I think that vice works like a F cramp, which is different to the usual wooden leg vice. It looks like there's nothing between the vice "cheek" and the bench, whereas on the usual leg vice there's a screw. And it's has built-in quick release as well. Plus there's no pin (found on some leg...

Get 3 of them, then check them against each other.

If it's actually accurate to within 0.05mm over nearly a metre, then that's good enough for woodworking, I would have thought.

Good points. I find the reflected light trick is very useful on gouges, where you don't have contact all the way along the edge on the stone because you have to roll the tool, esp with old tools that need a lot of work. And as you said, if you can feel the wire edge and then remove it, the edge...

Look for any light reflected off the edge, there shouldn't be any. Rub your your thumb across (not along!) the edge, it should "catch".

Might it be those were NOT the days? I suppose when the colonialists saw the massive, almost unlimited amount of untouched forests, they couldn't cut them down fast enough. Perhaps exotic woods were not valued highly enough in the past.

Here's two more long chisels: 19mm wide: 5.5mm (no tapering), has round bolster. No name on the chisel. 38mm wide: 4.2 and 5.5mm thick. Has "Geo..." on it. Blade length is about 200mm. So both are not thin.

Thanks all. I never would have guessed the cork borer sharpener!

I got these two knives in a job lot of chisels: The one with the curved blade (stamped "Foreign") I think is a lino or flooring cutting knife but what's the other one with the pivoting blade?

It looks like a normal bevel edge chisel but just long and wide. Here's a pic, it's the one at the top, a relatively recent Marples, because of the round bolster, but for some reason has a short handle. Under are typical normal length chisels for comparison (32mm to 12mm):

Hello all, How thick are long thin paring chisels? I recently got a 38mm bevel edge chisel which is quite long (215mm/8.5 inches blade, from business end to where it meets the handle) but it's 5mm and 6mm thick, which is the same as my other normal chisels, and it's hardly flexible at all. Is...

Regarding not hand sawing, is that because of the physical effort (actually not that hard work) needed or is it that it needs a lot of skill so it's easy to make a mistake? Or maybe it just takes longer. I wouldn't class using a sawing guide or a jig as sawing by hand, just my opinion.

I prefer a flat stone. Oil stones like a Norton might be cheap enough in the US for them be viewed as a disposable item but In the UK they are £30 (about $ 36 US) as mentioned already. Plus the fact that people in the UK are on average less well off than Americans in buying power, a new Norton...

Why float the pinion and not the drive gear? If only the drive gear was sloppy/floating and not the chuck/shaft/pinion assembly then maybe performance wouldn't be affected. As mentioned, I think lack of lubrication and bearings has a lot to do with it. I think a bigger problem is the keyless...

To answer my own question, I think it might be "I. & H. Sorby" with the first "I." missing. So it's "& H. Sorby" on the chisel, which would match the layout of the words. And the logo might be an upside down sheep.

Hello all, I know there are several "Sorby" names and trademarks on old chisels; I. Sorby (Mr Punch), I & H Sorby (hanging sheep), Robt. Sorby (kangaroo). I've got this chisel with what looks like "AR. SORBY, CAST STEEL" on it, and a logo/trademark. Note there's no dot after the first...

It seems to me that if you have a rounded bevel and you are deliberately trying to "roll" the bevel over the stone, only a tiny part of the bevel will be in contact with the stone at any one moment. Compare that with a flat bevel; the whole bevel will always be in contact with the stone ...

I haven't voted because I use the first three depending on circumstances: If I have access to a Tormek or similar - "hollow ground bevel, blade registers on stone at edge and heel". With new chisels eg Lidl/Aldi - "flat bevel (Japanese style) blade registers on stone on whole bevel". I only...

Aren't f-holes always finished off with a knife and the saw is used only for removing most of the waste, ie the saw doesn't cut to the line but close to it?

Make 1mm chisels from jigsaw blades, free if you get hold of worn out ones or about 50p - £1 each new. You need to grind off the teeth, then make a handle for it. For 2mm and 3mm you would need to find thicker blades, I can't think of any at the moment. If you are able to harden and temper...