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Ca vac are HPLV they are vacuums rather than a great big blower in reverse. I used such a system for years it will work but not brilliantly. It will block up and you will have some fine dust. As long as you keep the runs as short and straight as possible it will give adequate dust and chip control.

The last photograph shows an arrow on the blade does the blade spin so that the arrow points towards the front of the machine when the arrow is at the top of the blade or away from the front? In other words is the front of the machine to the left or right of that last photograph?

So unless you are resawing wood or book matching home made veneer, I am not sure I see a need for a bandsaw. Sure there are jobs a bandsaw could do if you had one such as dovetails for boxes but nothing that cannot be achieved in other ways!

Sounds like your just trying to justify buying a bandsaw. It really does come down to what you want to do with it. So as you say you do not know, lets try the question the other way around: what do you make and what do you intend to make?

Old record ones are best. The new ones are just not the same quality the steel bar is just a bit flimsy. There are regular offers if you buy 4 or more. I just bought two of these to try http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-tr ... pipe-clamp so far very happy with them. you can buy 6m lengths...

Get some machine wax and regularly polish the bed of the thicknesser and top of the planer it lowers the friction allowing the wood to feed easier under the rollers.

Most planer thicknesses need around 500cfm. I upgraded to an extractor capable of 1000cfm and installed 6" ducts ever since I have not seen the chippings let alone had a blockage.

The Rigid version did well in a Fine Woodworking bobbin sander review

It really depends what you want it to do. If you want to resaw logs or cut 12 inch veneer 1/8th thick then a bench mounted bandsaw is not for you. But if you intend to use it for lighter work, curves, tenons cutting say unto 75mm stock then a bench mounted bandsaw can be souped up to perform.

I use double tenons 10mm wide positioned as you say with a 10mm gap that way both tenons are within the rebate. If you have or can make a tenoning jig for a table saw then the tenons are not difficult. The alternative is a 15mm or 18mm tenon.

it is hard to tell if there is stain or just natural varnish. My first reaction was Elm.

What size and type of dust extraction do you have? Two things spring to mind fit a dust extraction pipe under the table adjacent the bearings or on the table but this would need to be permanantly adjusted

If the dimension is critical then hot water bending is not going to work without permanent formwork or good non creep glue.

If we are talking Buxton Uk, as opposed to Canada where yo say you live, then try Hymor's in Stoke on Trent. If you use Idigbo be careful with paint as whilst Idigbo takes stain and sikkens/ Sadolin products very well I have heard of problems with traditional gloss paints. As for Meranti I...

Yes ordinary ply and about 100mm radius

Yes I have steamed ply to form a bullnose step for stairs. It does need to be well steamed I also did it over a number of curves to bring it down to the required curve otherwise it could split

Douglas fir

As I said Record. I have te FM25 which is a floor standing Morticer that weighs 150 kg. it will eat 25mm softwood Mortice and 3/4 hardwood. It comes with adapters for all the different collar sizes. It has a good clamps and rack and pinion adjustment on the table so it is easy to set up and...

Alex. I read about your asthma. My advice is put your dust extraction so that it vents to the outside. Even the best extractors if they are venting in the work room mean you are getting some recycled dust. Plus if you vent outside the air pressure is negative keeping dust away from your lungs.

I have a brad nailer I use for making jigs and things for the workshop. Even so my 16 year old son looks at me aghast and says "And just some braaads to hold it in place". He does have a point.