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The fundamental problem with push pads is that they encourage (require) your hand to get too close to the blade or block in order to complete the operation. Worse still they encourage the user to believe that the hand is magically protected by the push pad and it is safe to ride over or pass...

I would think one from that range would be good my old extractor is the original of the startrite. It was good with fairly well contained fine dust

The poll is meaningless unless you differentiate between what aids should be used on a circular saw and what aids are appropriate on a planer. Then the answer is push stick(s) on a saw and hand over hand method on the planer. Very rarely a push block is appropriate on the planer but neither a...

Jacob to be clear the HSE do not recommend the use of push pads for general use on a planer. It is only for a very specific operation. They do not recommend push sticks or push pads generally because they consider the hand over hand method appropriate and safe. If you do this properly you are...

To be clear HSE do NOT recommend using push sticks on a planer. They do recommend using push sticks on a Circular Saw

Correct on both counts. It also stopped things rolling off f is a drawer and r just its runners. I have never seen the drawer go all the way through. n might be a flip stop for when you are sawing a length of wood you push the wood against it and saw away from the bench but it is in the wrong...

You could: Do one edge all by hand Take the worst off one edge with your planer and finish that edge by hand Make a support frame from ply or thicker straight stock to hold your timber and then run it through the thicknesser

If you just want to collect chips then you need circa 350cfm. If you want the fine dust as well then you probably need double say 700cfm. The Scheppach does 180m3/h or 108cfm. Even if you said 250cfm is needed after allowing for the margin of sales puff and loss through the tubing you will be...

How big is the P/T?

Jacob Will it be noisier then other strata. I always think that Birch ply is quite noisy whereas chipboard seems to absorb some of the vibration noise. But I do not recommend chipboard for that location. Just a thought.

Jacob Plywood has an odd number of laminates for a reason - to keep it balanced and hence flat. So if you are adding a laminate on the top you need one underneath. It is many years since I did such work but there is no way I would ignore the balancing sheet.

Ok so that's a ******** and a round cap on the shaft! That fixes most things :lol: Seriously thanks I will have a look. I am not really electrically minded so usually do more harm then good fixing things.

I would definitely put a balancing sheet of formica underneath. Also how will you fix the top to the units 18mm does not give you much to play with. It might be one to use cleats on.

Steve Have you tried your house insurance?

My trusty router is showing signs of a problem. With no load the speed keeps reducing and increasing. It is currently working of a fashion. Obviously related to the electronic speed control? I see on the web that parts are still available. For lots of reasons I will not be doing diy repair...

It really depends what you are going to be cutting. If you are ripping 3" oak then a dedicated rip saw is essential if you are just cutting 1" stuff then a combination blade is good as you do not have to swap blades.

Between Joyce and George Ellis I find the answer to most things joinery related. For instance recently I was making a door with an arched inside top rail which requires the shoulder of the tenon to be on an angle whilst the rail remains at a right angle. In Ellis there is a description of a...

Eric. I do not regard reading as cheating. The whole idea of such books is that we read them to be able to solve problems. Today it is an academic question. In six. Months time it could be for real. If Carl remembers the answer is in Joyce I would say his teacher should be proud. In two or...

I got my BS400 from Machinery4wood The reality is it comes direct from Chesterfield so for me they offered the best price and were very happy for the custom even if I live in the Midlands

The last time I used rippled sycamore I fitted new blades in the planer and planned 0.1mm passes I still ended up with some tear out but not much and it was easily scrapped and sanded out. I am a fan of spraying the surface with water but did not do so last time. The answer is very sharp blades...