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You will find you need a range of blades depending on what you cut. It is possible to keep the number down to two or three by compromising between "ideal for" and "OK at". If unsure email Ian at tuff saws and ask what would be best. If you tell him the full range of activities that you...

An opportunity for you then!

Modern Practical Joinery by George Ellis is my go to book on all things Joinery wise

I tend to use Hymor in Stoke http://www.hymortimber.co.uk/stock.html

Jacob, I do not know if any one has ever said this to you but repeating the same argument does not make it correct. The method approved and recommended by the HSE for hand surface planing is set out here http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis17.pdf. There is no mention of push sticks because they do...

No problem that is what the forum is for. The Newel and handrail, I use the Zipbolts. The treads are difficult as by cladding them unless you do the hall and landing as well you end up with uneven steps which is not permitted. Eg if you add 20mm to the first step it gains 20mm against the...

Mike I agree that dust does get thrown forward, but given the volume I tend to think it is from the gullet not clearing in the first place. Two suggestions the dust collection should be slightly further back so it is catching the dust whereas your current design the dust will hit the wall of...

As you say for shallow grooves with a riving knife set just below the top of the blade the technique is sensible as the chance of the wood catching on the back of the blade is minimal. My only concern comes from a freak accident at college doing just as you say but the lecturer was on the other...

That is not correct. The wood fibres can still move and trap the blade. Then there are two choices either the saw stops or more likely the wood is fired back at you at 100mph. Neither are good but the latter needs to be prevented so you need a Shaw guard or tunnel to stop the wood riding up the...

Sadly it is very confusing, a further factor is you need to know the inlet size as many will measure the flow based on say 175mm or 200mm inlet and then provide you with a 100mm inlet. This gets very confusing because you might think 100mm is half 200mm so just halve the flow. Nope...

Have you tried Armac Martin in Birmingham, they have something similar but not identical.

The English literature is very clear that Joiners did know the benefits of adjusting the cap iron to suit the operation and ability to control tear out. Modern Practical Joinery by George Ellis (1902) is very clear at page 6 and 7 of the book. I have read other books of this time including USA...

I got the reducers from Woodrat, I thought they were Woodrat's own so cannot be too precise. It was a long time ago

I have one on the router on my Woodrat. I also have the reducer for 8mm bits. I only ever use straight or dovetail bits with it so no large moulding bits. As Custard says you need clean good quality bits. The muscle chuck works well. You may need to try a few different positions and set ups to...

I am with CC on this, I found issue 1 mildly interesting but it had no relevance. I have not bought issue 2

Steve the table saw usually needs a large volume of air movement to keep it clear of dust so I use HVLP under with a nozzle that is directly under the cut and a shop vac fitted to my SUVA. The problem with a tight fitting cover will be where the air will come from whether HVLP or HPLV.

Interesting, I doubt the majority of UK professionals do not use a crown guard. There are times when removing the crown guard is necessary but not to use a crown guard as standard practice is just dangerous. In answer to the question HVLP but you need to think where the air will come from...

Why?

I am not sure it is a good plan. Melamine is not that hard wearing, the chipboard can also be rather uneven. If you glue biscuits into the chipboard to support the router plate framing you cannot guarantee the chipboard will not expand locally causing the surface to swell out of any working...

The other option if you are only going to use timber is to extend one of the mortices by a few inches so that a full tenon can be fitted and then fill the extended mortice with a patch to make it good after you have inserted the brace.