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In truth, if I'm using a hand plane in preparation of a surface just before a bit of sanding prior to applying finish I'm not really interested in looking at shavings, curly, concertinaed, straight, or whatever. I'm really only interested in the wood's surface, e.g., is it torn out, is there...

So what you're saying, basically, is that the old wisdom of setting the cap iron very close to the cutting edge of the sharp (obviously) blade reduces or eliminates tearout. Alternatively, or in conjunction with setting the cap iron close, and turning to another old trick, i.e., doing tuning...

What are you talking about? The question is what does influenced shaving mean? The link to Pabs is uninformative it just being a link to a bunch of threads he/she has said something in. Could you please try and answer the question. Slainte.

Pabs as well, now? What's that when it's at home? Adam, you and I are definitely out of the loop it seems. I must be an obsolete old woodworker lacking all 'influence', and now not even knowledge of what Pabs might be. Slainte.

I'd like to know the answer to that myself. I seem to be seeing that description put out there more and more frequently over the last couple of years. I've always simply known plane shavings by their coarseness, i.e., fine and thick, and shavings in-between those extremes. But influenced? Not a...

Never going to happen, and a waste of time and effort. Just leave the sleepers unfinished to survive as long as they can. Then replace them as required. Slainte.

If this question relates to making a wider panel from narrower boards I think it's less to do with adhesive type choice and significantly more to do with good edge preparation and firm clamping pressure to close the gap, plus being able where you can, to create an 'ideal' or seamless grain match...

You've basically solved or guessed at a solution to the problem yourself. So, yes, spray a quickly applied spit coat over your dyed/stained surface, one that flashes off quickly so that the lacquer doesn't have enough wet time to reactivate the dye. This should be a thick enough coating of...

Yes, you are. The slotted, Pozi, Philips, etc heads are for removing them when you've banged them into the wrong place. I assumed everybody knew that ffs. Slainte.

It could be any one of: American mahogany- unlikely African mahogany- possible Light or dark meranti (Shorea spp)- only a maybe Sapele- possible One or two other species that haven't immediately come to mind- maybe No sure way of identification from a few images. Slainte.

There's some truth in your "fraught with difficulties" comment. Wood, in common with other materials that people work with to make artefacts has unique characteristics and properties that need to be understood by the people that work it. It's not too hard to make successful solid wood...

I suspect your estimation of <6% being wood's MC is probably a little on the low side for wood in habitable buildings during any season in a year, certainly here in the UK. This would suggest an average atmospheric relative humidity (RH) of something under 40%. Internal RH figures for winter's...

Here's a link to another drawing method to establish dihedral angles, bevel cuts, and mitre settings to construct square or rectangular based pyramid structures. It supplements or is an additional drawing method to that illustrated by Jacob, which I have to admit that for some reason I've not...

I didn't know that. Thanks. I guess I didn't know because I can't ever recall needing or wanting to delete a whole post. Maybe I'm just too bull headed and suffer from over-confidence that whatever I've said is okay, ha, ha. Edit a post somewhat, yes, but complete deletion, never. Slainte.

Okay? I don't understand the full stop comment. I've seen this a few times and I always wonder what the comment is meant to say. Or, maybe the full stop indicates the writer deleted a message for some reason, but decided leaving the . was important. Anybody got any better ideas? And yes, our...

Hmm? I agree only up to the point that manufacturers, certainly here in the UK, have got into the habit of sloppy or confusing labelling leading to similar confusion by users in wood colourant application. Long ago, when I started my training the name dye told you that you were working with...

Ah, Pete, the trick is to not engage. I do like reading Jacob's schtick as he engages with those daft enough to fall for his provocations. The most improved aid to workshop efficiency, not strictly hand tool focused really, has to be the extended long stop, as opposed to the standard long stop...

I very much appreciate the positive endorsement. Thank you. Slainte.

As far as I was concerned there was no quirkiness or structural expressionism about it Jacob. The techniques illustrated in those images were, as I was taught, completely normal and standard. I guess our perspective differs on that sort of thing because my background and training was in craft...

Nice of you to say that, Derek. I hadn't thought much about the point you made regarding the mitre drawing the viewer's eye to the cove. I guess it's obvious when it's pointed out. To me the mitre at that point was just the standard means of construction. Slainte.