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Velcro is far easier and the discs seem to last forever. You will have to source the hook disc first of course. I see them on US websites.

I''ve always convinced myself that there is an optimum tool to do something otherwise I make a bodge of it. After thirty years I have drawers of tools - space has become a shrinking resource. :rolleyes:

They can be as cheap as chips or run into thousands. I think it depends on the projected lifetime. Most people opt for a veneered board but for the past few years I use cut down flush doors. The trick is to find an acceptable finish and reinforce the cut edges with glued in softwood battens.

If you have a drill press use a large plug cutter to clear the wood around the screw then twist out with a visegrips. Rockler in the US sell a hollow tube with a serrated end just for this - it's been a few years since I bought one so they may be available over here.

I cut one up once into 1/2" boards for boxmaking.. They all turned into bananas and most developed that horrible green stain. It's also a very difficult wood to work . There should be some advice from American websites and I just bite the bullet now and order small pieces from the US for inlay...

Thanks all. The ( very ) few You Tube clips show a router template being used which is the most logical. I'm a bit surprised that the end grain oysters allow clean routing but there's only one way to find out. The French were masters of the technique and I'm sure there are old textbooks...

You must remember it is the glue line which exerts tension in lamination. A single layer will always warp the piece so you need at least a double glue line ( top and bottom ) to balance out the stresses as the glue dries. You can use an exotic veneer certainly as the display layer as long as...

The former Irish Prime minister, Garret Fitzgerald was a noted academic and in a crucial debate he stated that 'that's fine in practice but will it work in theory ' ! He still won the election.

You will make your 1.8 mm veneers this way certainly. However they will come out of the pressing form like a banana. Only useful if you are going to glue them down to a solid substrate. Sanding veneers should start with 240 grit progressing to 320. Anything coarser risks going through the top...

The truth is that the vast bulk of Americans are poorly educated. They don't live in a cohesive society and resent paying taxes to support their country. A remarkable and very selfish way to live. ?

Anyone got a good book or article on this subject. ? I find that preparing the oysters is very difficult without them splitting or buckling . The real difficulty is fitting them into a precut background - like trying to fit a circle into a square. Is it possible to get some kind of router...

I tend to cut solid wood veneer to 4 mm on the bandsaw and then tack it to a piece of flat ply with just three bits of double sided tape. Make sure the blades in the thicknesser are sharp and take very shallow cuts. I have a Scheppach thicknesser with rubber rollers which probably helps. Use...

If you are getting back into turning you might consider a battery powered chainsaw. You can cut firewood blanks to size more or less and practice. There is a world of difference between turning green wood and seasoned and you don't want to turn £30 blanks into sawdust too readily. Wipe the tools...

If you have room for a table saw then that would be my choice. I'm assuming you want to make furniture and not just turn wood exclusively. A table saw will rip solid wood accurately, will crosscut accurately and process sheet goods. You can change the blades for optimum performance. For cutting...

Check out the Beadlock system sold by Rockler the US.Two mortises sre drilled out and the special loose tenons are inserted. A simple idea but the fit is so tight it needs clamping I think it is a brilliant and cheap system and made a set of dining chairs 6 years ago which are still rock...

3M make a rust stripper wheel but also a paint and varnish stripper wheel which is a bit softer. Run it at fast speed in a lathe or drill press and it takes rust off in seconds. Eye protection needed of course.

large drill bits soak up power and I once burned out a .motor in a drill press doing just that Hole saws are crude tools and leave rough edges as s well as needing plenty of power. The best option by far is a medium. Powered router with a good spiral bit using a template, either with a bush Or...

Sorry, I can't agree If the blade is above the outfeed table you will get snipe. As the piece leaves the infeed table it will drop slightly onto the blade causing snipe. I see plenty of utubers, especially American who simply accept this and waste wood. Sometimes you have to rely on experience...

Mortise and tenon joints rely on absolute precision.Tlhey should be a ' piston fit" Machining is the easiest way ro this.I despair when I see sloppy fitting joints. No amount of glue will rescue them so its better to, adopt a precision approach from the beginning