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As I said in my post above, both my Clifton frogs seem to be machined well enough. If I was allowed two gripes, they would be: 1) the domed brass nuts that hold the handles - flat would just be SO MUCH better, especially on the knob (as others have said); 2) the amount of slack in the threads...

I have two Cliftons. A No.3 and a No.4½ shown here alongside my WARFINISH Record No.04ss The frogs appear the be well machined If I run my fingernail over the Clifton frogs I can feel fine machining marks. Not so on the Record frog (I don't recall whether I "flattened" that face of the frog on...

Well, there's nothing more to say... really.. :wink: But seriously, a well written summary. I think I use most of the methods you describe (haven't got any milk crates - yet). Then there are the secret shelves I have behind drawers - to help store some things I've accumulated from prying eyes...

No fighting chaps (hammer) . Remember it's the season of goodwill :deer :ho2 No I never bought that monster, and it didn't sell. It's just been relisted. $125 (~£60) and it's yours ('course you still gotta collect it :mrgreen: ). I wonder if the bloke who made it ever got much use from...

I like that. Simple. And lives in your tool chest when not needed. I'm sure I read of people who found leather caused rust (something in the tanning process...?). I've experienced that myself, having made a few leather edge protectors for some of my chisels - some years later I found my seldom...

Cheshirechappie sums it up quite well. One point I would like to expand on is the issue of stablity of the castings. In the old days, as castings came out of the mould they were stored outside in all weathers for 6-12 months. This allowed the casting to move and stablise, so that when they were...

Merry Christmas to you all too :ho2 So we can tell Santa he doesn't need to call at your place this year then...? :ho2 Cheers, Vann. :deer :deer

With the frog not screwed down (i.e. with screws removed) if you can slightly rock the frog on it's seat, then it should be re-seated. If not, it's good to go. Of course, even if it is slightly out, but plane cuts just fine, you can just use it as is. Cheers, Vann.

Hi. I spotted this infill on a local internet auction site. From the lesser know firm of MS Channel & Sons. Nice buns :ho2 . Cheers, Vann.

Interesting :!: At 35° there won't be a lot of clearance between the bevel and the wood - so it'll be interesting to see how that works out. But even if you have to settle for 40° you'll still be better of than with a low-angle bevel-up block plane. A 40 EP is hard to achieve any other way...

2⅜" = ~60mm which is the width of a No.4 plane (not a No.4½ which would be ~70 to 74mm wide). So yours is most likely a No.M4. Yup, that would be correct. The No.5½ originally came out with a 2¼" wide iron - but was changed to 2⅜" after 1938 to match the No. 4½, No.6 and No.7. The No.4½ always...

I made a chuck-shell-clamp by boring a hole in a piece of softwood (pine). The hole was maybe 1/8" smaller in diameter than the chuck. I then cut the wood along the centreline of the hole. The chuck was inserted between the two halves and the lot was tightened in the vise. This grips the chuck...

This one has just shown up on the local internet auction site. $29 (~£14.50). 850 x 460 x 220. Looks like it may need some TLC. http://www.trademe.co.nz/antiques-colle ... 425931.htm Cheers, Vann.

Okay, firstly I'm a Kiwi not an Aussie. Tool boxes of the "piano" variety show up on the local internet auction site frequently - so they're known over here. I did my apprenticeship in a railway workshops (~850 men at the time - now closed :evil: ), so we didn't need that level of...

With a tight budget, and the cost of postage, I'd prefer to buy these expensive tools un-handled. I can make a handle, I can't make a rasp/float. £5 more for a handle... I'd choke :mrgreen: I have some of Noels rasps and am very happy with them - and I'm pleased I stumped up the dosh to buy...

Good luck with the operation. I too am a bit far away... (which is a pity 'cause my sharpening skills are a bit rusty - like my saws). Cheers, Vann.

Umm. I think the convention is a main bevel at 25° with a 30° secondary #-o, though I'm not sure what's appropriate for a rebate plane. Both Stanley & Record recommended a 35° bevel (no secondary or micro bevels) on their plough plane irons - but I'm not sure that's appropriate for a rebate...

I think you're just having a problem admitting that you were wrong Charles... (hammer) Cheers, Vann.

Hi Toby. I don't have any Japaneese chisels, so this is not the voice of experience... I grind my non-Japanese chisels on an 8" bench grinder (hand powered - puff, puff), so the hollow is not as great as with a 6" wheel. Anyways, I sometimes find I completely eliminate the hollow at the next...

I bought a Record 06ss a while back - it had a Stanley frog, which I've since changed-out for a Record frog. If you want the Stanley frog it's yours for the cost of postage - though it's a long way to send it. I'm at work at present, but I'll check it out and give you a postage cost when I get...