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I’ve made a few oak doors and windows, not professionally, but I was thought by a master joiner. I only ever use grade A kiln dried European or English Oak, as stated before it’s extremely hard to know if air dried is actually air dried or indeed air dried properly. It a lot of money and effort...

It’s being built close to my house and is within my garden. It complies with permitted development rights so doesn’t need planning permission. I have a primary builder who is building it and will coordinate all the trades. Because of its size its under building control

The diggers hopefully arrive on Monday to start in the foundations / install a new effluent treatment system which is the first job (we are on a septic tank) as I’m upgrading it whilst we have groundwork’s on going. I have now to decide on what to put on the floor. I’ve upgraded all of the...

The problem with regulation is that you need people who are fully skilled and educated in the subject to administer it. People with these skills are few and far between and won’t be administrating the systems, they are attracted to far better paying positions. So, you are left with the...

I would also like to suggest most electricians are too…..or chose to ignore the regulations in the haste for speed / move on to the next job. There are of course excellent highly competent passionate sparkies who take pride in their work, but like in most professions they are a rare breed IMO

Totally agree, the infrastructure is pants! The green agenda of all electric cars and everyone using air source was dreamt up by someone smoking waky baky without a clue of the implications. But a friend has just had 80 KVA installed for £2K, and my quote is £5K, but I need much more extensive...

My two penny’s worth. Since 1 April 2023 the electrical people can no longer charge for the infrastructure changes when installing 3ph into dwellings. So, the cost of attaching 3ph in the UK has significantly decreased for most installations. Looking to the future where some form of heat pump...

I r used security tape on bare oak without issue, like most hardwoods just give it a wipe over with a degreaser and it sticks! It’s a nightmare to remove when you need to replace a glazed unit, scraping it off the wood. Silicone I just scrape off with a chisel dragged over it, quick and easy...

It’s just my view, based on my own experience. I like to be on the back end of my saw if we are cutting a lot, taking off! Why? Well if you’re loading you get a shower of dust, the loader slowly changes colour as they become totally covered in saw dust. The saw has crown guard extraction and...

@Ttrees It really depends on exactly what you want. For my own saw I have now settled on a L’Invincible SCM Si15F it weighs close to 1 tonne! It’s a brute of a saw, not much larger than a Sedgwick, but has a 50” sliding solid cast iron table, extensions for full sheets and a scribe blade. Mine...

I use a leather apron when I’m in the thick of it. Stops the stuff wearing clothing / catching spells is sensitive bits of your body. I’ve also become sensitive to some woods and having dust off a table saw for instance fired at waist height can be…..let’s say…..interesting leather stopped any...

Doesn’t look difficult, a schematic of the assembly is within the manual. It has a couple of 802030 bearings.

The more expensive the saw in general the more industrial the build the better the saw will cut / last. I don’t have any experience of the Laguna saw, ie I haven’t either used one or more importantly for me taken it apart to see how well it’s been built. I had a good look at one at the Harrogate...

It may be the photo, but the sash bottom rail, muntins and styles are all rotten where they meet, so it needs to come out to be repaired / remade. The parting bead, jambs and cill of the frame are all rotten, which suggests the box will also have rotted out. To confirm, I’d be having a good poke...

Looking at the photo, I can’t see anything that isn’t rotten. Sometimes, the expression, flogging a dead / rotten horse comes to mind. I think practically, remake is the way forward rather than repair.

You should measure runout without the belt off, and whilst it’s off check for laterally movement in and out. I would strongly suspect the bearings need replacing, worn / damaged belts create vibration that causes them to fail quickly. Equally I suspect the bearings will not be designed for...

So that’s it, I’ve finally got to the end of disassembly and cleaning of the machine. It’s taken a long time as there have been lots of other projects I’ve been involved with that have taken presidency. I still have to put bits back together and rewire it, but that shouldn’t take too long...

The micro adjust wheel comes off first, this is held on by both a grub screw and a pin. However, befire taking it off, there is a grub screw on top of the handle which allows you to remove the spring and ball bearing.….carefully😂 Next the three screws release the indent disc. In the centre of...

We are into the final straight of what I’m going to tear down. The last thing is the raise and lower handle assembly. First the schematic This is the simplist handle, and there are only two things to watch out for, these are the two spring loaded ball bearings that act as indents.

Try shopping over the channel, they have very large dedicate workshops that produce jus5 one type of product. High quality and usually much lower prices than you can find in the UK.