Search results

Or use a joggle stick. There was athread about them a couple of years ago. I'd never heard of them before but they do work well. shows how it works although he doesn't fix his cardboard- you can see it move at one point. Also, I don't think you need nearly so many notches in your stick

They were gang nailed trusses. The man who built the workshop got them cheap as they had been made the wrong size- He designed the building around them.

The previous posters are making me a bit nervous as I did this to my workshop! The distance between the bottoms of the rafters and the floor was about 2.4m which would have been a huge pain in the *** in a workshop that handles a lot of 8X4 sheets and 3m boards. So I decided on surgery. I cut...

https://www.flipstop.com/ I've had these for 30 years and they're still as good as the first day.

I agree with Yojevol- I've done loads like that and never had one fail. PLEASE don't screw some plates on it! The leg broke the first time when there were no issues with glue etc, proving that the original design or timber was wanting. Therefore you want to go better than the original.

I have bought them from http://www.glasgowsteelnail.com/ and can recommend them.

https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/hard-wax-sticks-repair-kit-haefele/P-00878970/ If you can afford it, this is a great set. I got one a couple of years ago, having struggled with soft wax, sawdust and glue, and pigments mixed with epoxy filler for decades.

Blum or Grass. I am not so keen on Accuride as they aren't as smooth and are much less tolerant of slight inaccuracies in fitting.

My theory is that they are just normal firmer chisels. They were made deep because if they were thin they would be bendy under normal usage.

Reverse rotation is very useful- I probably use it about 10% of the time. It's mostly best, as you say, when you want to use the cutter upside down. Suppose you want to use a profile that appears on the top corner of the cutter if it's mounted normally. Now suppose that you want to mould a bunch...

I would usually agree, but there's a bit more to them than that- they have flattened and shaped ends, and I would have to make 16 of them, identical, in a woodwork shop with rudimentary metalworking equipment. My client has deep pockets and is happy to pay for quality.

Nice box! I'm not sure how much help acclimatising will be as the tensions are there in the box, waiting to be released. However, it wouldn't do any harm and might well work. Re the first box, is there any reason why you can't plane a little bit off the RH front corner, so as to close up that gap?

Perfect, thanks!!

Thanks Phil- I'm looking for plain but quality.

Hi, I'm looking for some of those brass L-shaped things that you get on music rests, to hold the pages in place. What they are called would be a start!

The first Festool sander I bought (not the same model as yours) was very vibey and I took it back. They said that the main bearing was sticky and replaced it. This fixed the problem.

I think I'd try to keep the intact bits of the tenon as it's a majority of the width. I'd sandwich the tenon with 2 bits of scrap clamped together, and then use a slightly oversize drill to drill through the tenon where the holes are and about 25mm into the endgrain, then glue in some dowels and...

I've had many of those "how much?!" moments. Over the years I've developed the habit of just entering things on an Excel spreadsheet, and not looking at the bottom line until iI've finished. Sometimes it looks too little! I have given up trying to guess what my clients think will be a reasonable...

The other aspect of it is that I use the program for preparing quotes- and of course because I don't get all the jobs I quote for, this is the majority of what I use the program for! And as I don't have that stack of boards to work through, if I didn't use the program, I'd have to draw them out...