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I've been offered greenheart at £5000 per m3 which is probably the cheap end . That would be for sawn to size though.

It does depend on what you'll put in the wall cabinets,if it cornflakes, doritos and a few wine glasses then plasterboard fixings should be ok. With the wing type fixings you have to undercut the insulation a bit so they can expand properly. If you'll be putting a load of tins and all your...

I would guess a thin dark or mid oak stain either water or oil based then a liming wax rubbed on and buffed off then a wax or oil finish. It will take a bit of experimentation to get it how you want.

It's fairly simple so is a potential diy job, but you would need a tower scaffold and building regs sign off. A hetas fitter can self certify and should have a scaffold so may not end up costing much more.

A home made long shelf support cut from a piece of rod or a 4" nail would work.

Formica one side has never caused me any problems. I think the mdf / ply laminate is where your problem is.

There's not many timbers at that weight and several of those are distinct black ,red or green. So of the brown dense woods my guess would be Ipe which has the right end grain look and isn't that uncommon imported into the UK ,though it could be one of the acacias which are known to check a bit...

Have you tested if it does sink in water, could your specific gravity calculation be out ?

First cut your board up into the approximate size you need so the twist and bow you're planing out is minimized. Then plane with the bow or cup up so you're just getting the ends first. You might need to run just the ends over the cutter holding the board to work out any twist, probably flipping...

Can't say I agree with Bojam. You can get good results with care on standard length tables. There's a bit of operator skills in getting the best from a planer .

You can do a lot with a 10" planer thicknesser. If you're on your own doing timber longer than about 10 foot will usually get a bit of snipe on the end, if there's two of you you can do longer with ease. You will need a chip collector, if you don't use one the chips won't clear and it will mark...

Rob h has first dibs but I'll keep you posted if he can't take it.

Anyone interested?

I'm also in the bought one sold one camp. I don't do many dovetails but when I do I don't want them to look machine made and I quite enjoy the process by hand.

Fixing the form to a base board will help a lot with alignment of the strips, if you can't use a full board some pieces screwed on will do. Parcel tape is much better than plastic sheet ,it will stay where you put it and won't get rucked up or caught in the laminations.

If you want to go organic lime trees have slightly sticky leaves and trees and hedges of pleached limes were often planted in cities to control dust and smoke pollution. Not sure how you would get that to work in your workshop in winter though.

I'm selling my Electra Beckum HC 260 planer thicknesser. It's 240v on a 13 amp plug. Planing width 10" thicknesser depth 7". I have the original manual, setting gauge, spanner and allen key, also three sets of new double sided knives and one of resharpenable knives and carriers. The disposable...

I've got nothing against oak chopping boards though some people think the tannin may taint the food, that's why sycamore, maple, beech etc are traditional for dairy and kitchen tools and vessels. Wooden boards are more hygienic than plastic because the wood will dry even in the pores and knife...

I'd go equal boards and glue up, then there's no problems with orientation when you cut up and assemble.

My Elektra Beckum planer has aluminum tables and I've never experienced any problems with them. I suspect the difficulties may be exaggerated.